I kinda knew this was gonna be a thing as it’s not my first go around the block on door latches. But anyone have tips to stop them from freezing? It was -15c last night all the latches are frozen shut.
The locks themselves have been hit multiple times with graphite spray, but I’m skeptical about their longevity. The issue is less about the lock, but the whole shit-a-roo freezing. Can’t push the button to release the latch. I used a heat gun, but that’s not going to work in the bush.
Thinking of seeing if I can retrofit some of these for the back at least.
Had the rubber covers on my canopy for years and never had a issue. Without them and even with graphite spray I was lucky if the locks lasted the winter.
Yeah, gonna have to make sure I have some sort of lighter or torch in the glove box. @Liv2Bike the latch and mechanism was/is frozen, I can only assume that the lock would be too; but it’s not locked as I anticipate those tumblers shitting the bed within the next 3 months. Regardless of preventative maintenance, I’ve never had luck with exposed lock barrels.
I’ve been trying to find a T-handle solution that will fit the same cut out. But, I’ll likely end up riveting some aluminum over the hole, then drilling a hole for a T-handle. Not as streamlined, but definitely more robust for redneck northern winters. I’ve had a similar issue on newer bins on Line trucks and we would usually just bolt on a pad lock latch LOL.
Heyo- As you might have seen in this previous thread, we recommend Boeshield T-9 as the preventative option, but since just a bit of moisture can keep locking mechanisms from performing in frigid temps, we recommend having a lighter torch or a small propane torch on hand for emergencies.
Do your best to rid the locks of any moister before trips, and be sure to handle those torches with care. Don’t forget to glove up before touching those heated areas.
Solid. We noticed the T-handle lock your shared is still an exposed cylinder or barrel lock as well, so improved performance could be unlikely as moisture + low temps can still prevent these mechanisms. Before making any adjustments to your GFC, please hit us up at support@gfcengineering.com, and a rep from our Warranty & Service Team can get you more detail.
I wonder if you could create a rubber insert that goes over the whole mechanism to keep water/ice out of the moving parts. A latch condom if you will. I think I’ll have to revert to my OG first canopy experience before I learned to protect the T-handles. That was to not leave any valuables in the box (which is a bit of a pain) but at least then I can leave the doors unlocked and unlatched at the back.
As a daily driver having to fight and heat up the locks/latches every time just isn’t going to work. But the solution is easy, if there’s nothing to steal in there then it doesn’t matter that its open and unlocked. If someone wants to steal my chains fill your boots!
It’s not that big of a deal. I just did sub 0° and only one lock had to be thawed in intense weather. It took me 2 seconds. Just make sure its a windproof torch. I keep mine in my pocket.
LOL, might not be a big deal for you. But for me, over the last two days I’ve had to thaw it out 4 times. So I’ll definitely be leaving it unlocked and likely unlatched anytime I’m driving in snowy logging roads for hours to get to skiing. I’m not a big fan of fiddle fucking around…and this falls into that category.
But I’ve coated everything now with a graphite spray in the hopes that will keep things free. But I’ve had a canopy lock freeze locked 80k in the bush on route to skiing, and it’s not fun having to dink around in the dark to try to get your gear out to load onto the sleds. The solution I had for the next canopy was the covers that kept the water and road grime out. And that was that, I never had to worry about it again. The saving grace with the GFC is worst case scenario I can open my tailgate and slide the lock blocks down and just leave the locks frozen…again though, this falls into the ‘fucking around’ category.
Mine routinely froze and my hinges froze a few times enough I couldn’t open the panel. Was a big deal in my opinion. Your idea about a cover is a good one. If you undo that one bolt the latch pops out and it would be easy to sandwich something between the panel and the latch I’d think. Rubber glove?
Classic!!! That’s my biggest fear; or like I said showing up at the trail head late at night needing to load up the sleds and not being able to get into the back to get the gear.
Josh and I (mainly Josh) are cooking up a solution. There are compression latch dust covers commercially available just not for the C2 configuration that I can find.
This is from Tacomaworld and actually a thread on a different cap, not my idea not my product and apparently not an issue with GFC specifically.
But basically your latch “condom”. (Teehee) the RSI cap for which it’s intended is steel, so he 3D printed these covers with holes, glued some magnets in the holes and put a rubber gasket around the perimeter.
We collectively lost our shit and are trying to get him to make 1000.
Not only does it prevent liquid from entering but also makes the fact that it even opens a little more low key to the random passerby.
Brilliant!!! That’s very elegant. As I’m learning the 3D printer thing is great, but extremely time consuming. Something will come together, as I dig deeper and search the dark corners of the web; I’m actually surprised that I haven’t found a company that makes these already. These aren’t an uncommon style of latch. We use them in the telecom industry although have moved to flush mount which have better options for weather protection. Probably for the exact reason some of us are experiencing.
I have a few irons in the fire, but being more of an electronics guy than a geometry type guy; the concept of taking on another hobby like 3D printing makes my head spin.
Ok, just experienced this yesterday in mammoth lakes, ca. snow blizzard here blew a 4’ snow drift behind my truck that i had to dig out to access my rear hatch and tailgate. All latches were frozen shut, I had to dig away the ice in the hole with the key
I keep a few of those chemical hand-warmer packs in my glovebox. Haven’t had to use them yet, but seem like they could be a good way to get some heat into the latch without worrying about melting any of the plastic with a torch.
We have had weather in the 20s in Washington and my locks, which I’ve treated with Boeshield we’re all hard froze two days in a row. The hinge on the rear door was frozen as well. Not only were the locks frozen but once the locks were popped the latch holding them shut failed to release.
The icing on the cake was that after defrosting at home with a heat gun and taking 45 min to remove all ice, towel off all moisture and re-lube the locks before a trip up to Mt. Rainier, after the 2 hr drive up there, I was locked out of the back of my truck. I even left the locks unlocked. I have a lighter torch in the glove box to warm up the locks but it wasn’t enough to get the latches to release.
I am super disappointed. I’ve never had problems with a canopy in this kind of weather. I expected a lot better than this from a 4 season product coming out of Montana.
