Weatherizing Update

As those of you who have been communicating with our Service Team know, we’ve been actively investigating the cause of the water intrusion some campers have been experiencing. Water is a tricky beast so we’ve treated it as such by looking into more than just the obvious scenarios that could result in water inside the tent (a thing that is definitely not supposed to happen, just so you know). We’ve found that there are two primary root causes of potential water intrusion when the tent is closed:

  1. Pooling of water in the folds of the tent
  2. Inadequate drainage of the roof beams that overwhelms the drainage when opened.

Pooling of Water In the Folds of the Tent

When we designed V2, we increased the gap between the upper and lower tent frame by 0.25". We did this to make closing the tent easier. That increased gap works great for its intended purpose but it also allows water to accumulate in the folds of the tent under certain conditions. That water then drains through the door and window openings of the fabric and into the tent interior (not good).

As of this week all campers going out the door have a perimeter bulb seal applied to the underside of the upper tent beam that prevents water from accumulating in the folds of the tent. For campers built prior to this update, we will soon have a Weatherizing Update Kit available for free that will include these seals.

Roof Beam Drainage

Our roof design uses a floating honeycomb panel that is not fully sealed to the frame. Water is intentionally allowed to get past the roof panel where it’s trapped by a trough and then channeled away via drains to the outside of the camper. We do this because it holds up better to the impacts and vibrations of off-road use (we used the same concept on V1s as well). However, we’ve found that these beams can drain too slowly. What’s happening is that water accumulates on the roof, seeps into the beams as intended, but sometimes does so faster than it’s draining out. This results in a layer of water in the beam that rushes forward when the tent is opened (like an internal water slide). This water slams into the front corner with enough pressure that it overwhelms the drain and forces its way through the corner junction and dumps water right at the most vulnerable part of the tent (the corners).

Again, as of this week, all campers going out the door have additional drains added to the side beams. But we’ve made a few more changes just to add an additional level of protection. We’re now adding sealant to the small gaps at the corners of the roof. Those gaps are intentional as they’re required to give the outer cap enough clearance to come on and off and allow for flexing of the roof frame off-road. We weren’t initially concerned about them because we thought we had sufficient drainage in the beam. But there’s no good reason not to put some sealant on them so we’re now doing so. We’ve also begun sealing the corners of the tent with a revised fabric design and for earlier tents a synthetic rubber sealant.

For campers that have already been installed, the Weatherizing Update Kit mentioned earlier will also include sealant for the roof gaps, tent corners, and a drill fixture to make adding the extra drainage easy. Again, this is free of charge and if you can bring us your camper, our Service Team can do it for you.

How to Get the Kit

If you have any issue of any kind with your camper, we ask that you submit a request via the Service Request Form and our Service Team will help you out. We’ll be contacting everyone who has reported this issue and will get them lined out with an update kit or a service appointment.

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Yea!!! I was not looking forward to a wet bed.

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Happy to get you some “semi-retirement” peace of mind, Sam. The team is stoked to see you in February!

@Mike_GFCUSA, Just got mine installed today and noticed the additional drain holes and watched you install the bulb seal! Will mine also have the additional sealant mentioned as well as either the updated fabric design or synthetic rubber sealant?

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We will need a video or soomething to show us what exactly we will do with kit.Etc etc.

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Great news and great work. I’ll be up in February for my install and making my way back home to Santa Cruz via the PNW to get in some steelhead fishing and shakedown the V2. Very happy to hear I no longer need to worry about a bet wetting issue.

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I’m not a part of the service department anymore (one of the ones spearheading this solution) so I do not have anymore information that what was involved in the newly implemented procedures. I can say that we have your back though and should be releasing that information soon. It takes longer than most people think not only to assess a problem, verify and the think of a solution but also to test it, redesign it, test it again etc. then you have to figure out how to apply or distribute the solution as well in a way that is viable for both company and customer. Having run the mobile PIT tour for close to a year I can say that we won’t ever leave you guys high and dry (though it sounds like that is exactly what you all want in the most literally sense of the phrase haha!)

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@GFC I have tools and know how where would these extra drain holes be located?

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Is it conceivable that this could happen without opening the tent, e.g. if parked with the roof closed on a slight incline in heavy rain? Or even just in heavy rain not on an incline? E.g. the 6-9" in 72 hours we’ve had in the PNW recently?

@the_philxx any chance that might have something to do with what you’re experiencing?

Also @the_philxx have you tried isolating suspected vulnerability points using a hose to see if you get intrusion when a steady stream of water is directed locally at a certain spot?

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Gotchya. And yea, to be clear I was not suggesting you should park flat, was just wondering if the issue GFC described above with roof beam overflow may occur all the time in sufficiently wet conditions, not just when the roof is opened. A hose test may help reveal things. Hopefully we got a nice dry spot today and this weekend.

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Hey @the_philxx since you’re able to look up into the tent while closed, do you see water beads forming all along the white honeycomb panel?

Really happy to know that GFC is listening to folks about flaws in the initial design. I’m really stoked things are getting fixed and even more happy I’ll be picking up my canopy in January with a lot of these bugs being worked out. Thanks for listening and finding solutions.

For any of those wanting to get a jump start before the diy kit, got this from GFC. @blackhearse fyi

“We do not want customers drilling into their campers without drill jigs. As a result, we have been working on drill jigs over the past couples of weeks to include with the kit along with precise drill bits to ensure the job is done correctly. The drill hole locations are located in vital areas, which could result in other parts of the camper becoming damaged if the exact drill locations are not adhered to. So please wait on our kit”

Looks I’ll be waiting as I don’t want to impact warranty (or f it up in general)

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I’m happy to report, at first aggressive truck wash using the logging truck bay (which is more pressure), there was NO water intrusion on the tent. A bit got in the side panels, but as mentioned this is a super high pressure washer. So I would say that the new weather stripping, and drain holes appear to be doing what they should.

I had so much road grime on the truck from the trip back from Montana. I had to give the rig a solid 30 minute blasting. So be patient, and your weather woes will be reduced.

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I did, and a bit of an update. The tent still gets a little wet at the rear when parked on a slope, but not nearly as bad.

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Are we talking like 4-5 Bounty paper towels-worth, or 4-5 “great-value” paper towels-worth? Full sheets, or half sheets?

Have you sealed the roof corners with Lexel as they’ve previously advised? (The blue mark with the red arrow you posted above)

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Glad everything is working out for you regarding your issues! I could be wrong but I believe in an another thread you mentioned there is a new tent design that eliminates the keder core from popping out (mine is just fine). Is the keder core completely removed from the current V2 design? I am hoping this can be discussed further. Do you happen to have a pic of the new design? Also looking forward to see how this will work out for us DIY weatherized Kit V2s.

It looks like the Keder core is actually still in there when I took a closer look yesterday. But I was assured by the team they addressed the issue with that popping out. Only because I asked if it was ok to cover that hole to stop it from doing so. I may still just throw some silicone in there to be safe.

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Interested as well since the updated tent design is the only remediation I didn’t seem to get on my camper, installed 11/12.