GFC OFFICIAL: Rear Steel Crossbar Removal Maintenance

[Mike_GFCUSA]

Hey Guys,

I’ve started a short series of write up’s and while I wait for the new website to be released I figured I would post them here with the first one, how to remove the steel rear crossbar and reinstall it to allow proper lubrication.

Tools:

• Soft Mallet/Deadblow Hammer
• #3 Phillips screwdriver/driver bit and drill
• T-9 Boeshield or comparable lubricant
• Wire Brush or other cleaning items if necessary

Step 1- Remove extrusion corner screws that face inward toward the camper using a #3 screwdriver or screwdriver bit on a drill. It is only necessary to unscrew one side.

*Note: Be careful when removing as to not strip the screws

Step 2- Once the screws are removed use the soft mallet to gently tap out the corner outward away from the tent.

*Note: keep one hand on the steel bar so it does not fall down when it is pressed out.

Step 3- Once the crossbar is removed you can remove the plastic tent locking pins. Lay the crossbar on a flat surface and slide the pins all the way out.

Step 4- Slowly unscrew the L-pins and remove them from the sliding tent locking pins and then remove the sliding tent locking pin:

*Note: Do not let the sliding tent locking pin fall back into the tube as it may then be more difficult to remove.

Step 5- You can now remove the entire sliding tent locking pin and spray your chosen lubricant (we recommend T-9 Boeshield) and clean out any debris in the tub itself.

Step 6- You can now reverse steps 5-3 to reinstall the hardware into the crossbar. Be sure to keep a good hold on the sliding tent locking pin so it does not slide back down into the crossbar.

Step 7- Reinstall the crossbar by setting the crossbar on the press fit cap on the inside of the extrusion corner

Step 8- You can now use the soft mallet to press the corner back in by gently tapping it back inward

Step 9- You can now use your # screwdriver or drill with bit to tighten the extrusion corners.

*Note: Take care to make sure the corner is hammered all the way back in so that you do not strip or break the screw when re-tightening.

You have now completed disassembly, cleaning/lubricating and reassembly.
-Big Mike

[owennoll]

Thanks for posting. I’m sure it was obvious and I missed it, but which camper models have this crossbar? Is this only for the older models?

[Mike_GFCUSA]

This is mostly the older models and a few models who had custom painted frames during the period we were switching over to the aluminum crossbar.

[Zkzr2]

Side note: If you remove and/or replace the rear tube it might misalign the top roof portion from the bottom frame mounted portion (at least mine did). If you just undo the pins and leave it slightly propped and hit firmly with a soft mallet you can move it sideways which ever direction it needs to be corrected to center it again. Mine initially did not close all the way after the install. Once I tapped it with a decent amount of force I was able to re-center it.

[Mike_GFCUSA]

Will be covering this in a smaller write up but good spot to put it for people to see.

[han]

Thanks for getting these DIYs out, Mike.

I had to do things a little differently to remove mine after the pins froze up in the latched position.

Rear Steel Tube Upgrade to Aluminum Extrusion

The following worked for me, but I’d welcome any input from Team GFC. I had to remove the steel tube to address the pins when they rusted in place. If the pins still slide freely, it’s not too difficult with a few tools. If they’re stuck fast, they need to be loosened up enough to be driven inside so they clear the ends of the tube, but not so far that the 1/4-20 threaded hole is covered. I removed the latch screws and replaced them with a 1/4"-20 bolt that I could tap on gently. I liberally …

[Zkzr2]

On that note I noticed on mine that there was a lot of build up of debris in the threads. Had to hit it with some brake clean to avoid cross threading. Not sure if that is vibration wear, or installation error, but it was more than I thought should be there. Don’t plan on doing that anytime soon; only way to properly fix aluminum cross threading is with a helicoil insert and there is barely enough room to drill anything out.

[han]

Good observation. Chips in the threads makes sense.

GFC appears to use self-tapping screws, so all the more reason to be cool with them, IMO.

[Mike_GFCUSA]

You have to be the coolest. Slow and easy wins the race?