My latest build using one of my 3D printed kits (like this one - DIY Diesel Heater in a box: How-to - YouTube)
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Did the fuel filter you have attached come with your heater, or did you buy a different filter?
It came with this heater, I hear it’s not a good one. (it’s my first time using this brand of heater). So I just picked up some nicer in line filters to replace. https://amzn.to/3KAEboA
Problem:
I am using the Anker 757 to try and run my diesel Heater. When I activate the DC port the LCD screen on the heater turns on and shows p13v. When I press and hold the power button the fan kicks on and the screen shows the glow plug warming up. After about 30 seconds or so the DC port on my Anker kicks off. It seems like the start up of the diesel Heater is taking too many watts during startup? Any ideas or suggestions?
A couple things are at play here.
- At startup these heaters draw a lot of amps. Sometimes over 20
- The longer your power cord from the power unit to your heater the more amps that are drawn due to resistance.
- Cheap /most cigarette power outlet plugs create a lot of resistance
- The wire gauge that comes with these and the wire itself creates a lot of resistance
- Most power units don’t like greater than 20 amp draws.
You can’t do anything about #1 so try to resolve 2- 5
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Looking at the specs on that anker it looks like the 12v socket can only do 10 amps. I think my heater only draws around 8 for the glo plug but mines only a 2kw. I’m guessing yours is hitting that 10 amp limit.
My goal zero 500x had the same issue. Getting rid of the cigarette lighter plug helped out, but when it was actually cold out it would pull too much and trip the 10amp breaker. I was able to get it going off the truck with it running (as others have mentioned), then once it was really hot switch over to the Goal Zero. This works like 75% of the time. In the end I didn’t want to buy a new battery pack so I just sold the heater and went a different route.
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What’s your “different route”? Out of curiosity…
Original plan was to use the portable diesel in the GFC when solo, and have some hookups to use it in my trailer when family camping.
I ended up permanently installing a Propex HS2211 in the trailer, and in the GFC I just use a buddy heater before bed and in the morning and stay warm with a good bag.
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Yeah I was able to run it off of the truck’s 12v outlet. I had the same idea, get it warm and then put it on the Anker, but no luck when I would switch it over to the Anker the fan would come on and cool it down to 30°C and then the glow plug would turn on to try the start up process, which would then trip the system. 
Thanks for the tips I tried shortening the 12 volt cord no luck there. I was thinking about switching my power supply to something that could handle more amperage at startup. Any ideas or suggestions? I was looking at Dakota lithium batteries.
I have a Vevor 8kw and have had great luck using my Bluetti EB70s just for future purchase if anyone is looking.
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could also try a larger gauge wire… ( I am adverse to buying something different if I can make what I have work). I have used one of these with shorter wires to solve a friends heater power issues before https://www.amazon.com/CUZEC-Heavy-Duty-Cigarette-Inverter-Electric/dp/B08CMRHYLB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2KB35QV4M6Z17&keywords=high+amp+12v+power+plug&qid=1677506371&sprefix=high+amp+12v+power+plug%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTDZGMDRXSzlQUFpSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDg0MTkyM08yRkNHOElFTUMyWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTk3MDQxUjVZRkdDUVVGVUZaJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I have a goal zero 1500 and even it will get finnicky if the power cord isn’t quite right… But something like the GZ1500 also gives you the option to tie 2 or 3 of the 12V ports together to allow for much higher amp draw if needed.
Awesome, thanks! I will try that out. I did check my adaptor and it was 16AWG, maybe a 14 or 12 will do the trick! I do like a cheap fix rather than an expensive one. I have one on order and will keep you posted! 
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Here is my refined setup used lots this winter down to -40 without issue. These are changes I made over my original setup. It’s been useful to have around for much more than just heating the GFC.
- Combustion air is drawn from outside. I added a Planar intake silencer tube that seals better and reduces noise. This is similar to the Autotern/ Planar commercial setups. With the exhaust pipe installed the intake / exhaust separation is about 36”.
- Added a vent and baffles near the exhaust so the heater air is drawn across the exhaust to pre-warm it prior to going through the heater. I’ve found this gives you a 15f to 45f boost in efficiency but still stays well below the high temperature cutoff. I removed all my exhaust wrap and added stainless heat shields. That wrap sheds little bits of fibreglass and is not great to have around.
- Switched to a Wabasto exhaust pipe and hydraulic clamps to ensure it’s fully sealed. It’s thicker and the crimping is higher quality. The interior of the case stays below 70f since the heater moves so much air through it. I did a few leak down checks and a smoke test and it’s nice and sealed. It’s definitely something you need to periodically inspect. Also added some leftover gold foil and thermal sound mat that totally silenced the fuel pump.
- I moved the fuel pump from the case lid to side of the case. Now the heater can run with the door open and the pump stays in the proper position
- I moved the fuel filter into the fuel tank. This reduces the number of possible leak points in the case. I also added a section of clear tube between the pump and the heater so you can see if the fuel is flowing and if it has any bubbles. It found the clicking sound almost nonexistent at the new location.
- Tested with kerosene mix and straight diesel without issues. It fires up down to -40. I think the kerosene mix has less smell but is quite a bit more expensive. Kerosene mixed with 2 stroke oil at 75/1 also works great.
Here you can see the exhaust with all wrap removed and the heat shield added. The fuel pump with clear fuel line. I used Oetiker clamps on all the connections. The combination intake with silencer is a Planer part.
I had a CO meter and a 4 channel thermometer setup during testing. As you can see the air temperature enters at 6.9 but it’s warmed up to 19.6 before it gets to the heater. There is so much airflow through the case it doesn’t get hot.
Air intake at -40! Frosty!
Heating up my friends frozen truck for a few hours before it would start. Bluetooth control is awesome. Being able to start/stop and monitor the heater from inside is really nice.
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Also, I think most heaters run the glow plug at 10 amps for a short time during the shutdown period to burn off any carbon buildup. So take that into account when sizing your setup.
I really like it in the cubby, it keeps it always on hand and I never have to think about being cold again.
The one thing I need to do is program it for high altitude operation since that’s usually where I tend to need it, around 9-10k feet.
For mine I removed the stock plastic cubby and welded up an aluminum box to fit in its place. Attached to the composite bed using rivnuts, and threw a generic house heater vent over it in the bed. Moved the AC plug up a bit higher, but I never really use it.
Let us know which route you decide on! Plenty of inventive options in this thread
The different route is the fact that the heater is now in my truck and not his 
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Ha very true! Hope you are benefiting from my struggle 
I actually haven’t gotten a chance to try it out yet, my National Luna DC25 power pack took a crap so it’s now at Equipt getting tested for possible warranty work 
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