Door Fitment

Submitted a ticket to get a correct answer but does anyone else have odd gaps in their door fitments?

Bottom corners - you can see on passenger side great coverage and overlap. on drivers side it’s barely on the seal, if not on the inside edge.

Top corners - see lip folding over rear from side doors. the lip extension is quite varied. drivers side is not as extensive as passenger. does this matter for weather or element protection or a quality control and cut issue?

Any thoughts or am I over analyzing?




It’s friday :beer: but that looks straight to me

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Not over analyzing. Both sides of your rear door should definitely look like the passenger side, no visible miniature bubble seal. As for the drivers’s side door, following upward the deviation gradually increases, where there appears to be a slight bend out in the vicinity of the hinge. More of a gap there revealing the end of the upper miniature bubble seal than on the passenger’s side door. Or maybe I’m just seeing things too.

So we’re drinking the same stuff, different from @blackhearse Friday libations haha.

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I’m into the Hillbilly Daiquiri tonight… that’s a smoothie with 130 proof home made corn whiskey instead of milk or yogurt. I’m going healthy today…

It kind of looks like the driver side support got kicked out at the top. When i got mine the screws were loose and I had to tighten them all :crazy_face:

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can you get picture of that top corner with both the panels open?

They raise and open the same but the gap on the drivers side is bigger and it almost looks like the metal wasn’t bent aligned.

Still waiting for someone to respond to my ticket.

I just noticed mine is doing the same thing. It wasn’t like that a couple days ago. I think it was the wind ripping across ND prairies and passing semis. the wind buffeting was rough. from the inside I can see where the weather strip on the back panel used to rub and now it’s quarter inch off

Interesting. So GFC called me last week and we walked though this. We think it shifted a little.

  1. Loosen top bolt on bed clamps on side that has shifted (leave bolts in bed rail as is) -->9/16th; front and back

  2. Do not remove bolts but loosen bolts in the cross-member (banana looking) piece in the upper corner.

  3. Rachet strap from loose side (i.e. drivers for me) to other side which has been untouched.

  4. Tighten and watch that corner re-align when you close the rear hatch.

  5. Tighten all back up, remove rachet.

Basically you are trying to loosen it up and pull the framing back in.

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that’s basically what I just did but I used a rubber mallet to persuade it back 95%. I’ll fix 100% when I get back home and have better tools and not so cold. I came back to spread the knowledge but you beat me to it :beers: did your sealant detatch at the corner?

Haha, funny enough I tried the rubber mallet trick first and no dice. The rachet worked pretty well.

What do you mean by sealant detach at the corner?

the black sealant at the joints where all the tubes meet on the inside of the frame

Ahh, I’d have to look. Like the painted on compound?

it’s black “silicone” sealant like caulk stuff

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Yup, I can visualize. I’d have to look.

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