GFC OFFICIAL: Front Steel Crossbar Removal and Maintenance

Front Steel Crossbar Removal and Maintenance


  • Soft Mallet/Deadblow Hammer
  • #3 Phillips screwdriver/driver bit and drill
  • 3/16” Allen Key
  • Wooden Block
  • Needle-nose Pliers
  • Wedge
  • T-9 Boeshield or comparable lubricant
  • Wire Brush or other cleaning items if necessary

Step 1- Detach tent lifting struts by removing the lower strut clip found on the bottom shock ball mount.

Step 2- Remove the upper extrusion corner screws that face inward toward the camper using a #3 screwdriver or screwdriver bit on a drill. It is only necessary to unscrew one side.

Step 3- Now it is time to remove the 2 bushings in the front hinges of the corner extrusion. You can do this by loosening them with the 3/16” Allen key. Once the bolt is removed you can then pry out the busing, normally using the threads on the bolt is enough to pry the bushing out as it is only press fit in. (Optional pliers or screwdriver can also be used.

Step 4- Once the hinges are removed you can now freely move the extrusion up or down (still limited by the tent which is fine). Prop the extrusion up on a wooden block to separate the upper and lower front corners

Step 5- Now use the soft mallet/deadblow hammer to gently tap out the upper corner to access the press fitting for the crossbar.

Step 6- Once the crossbar is removed you can now clean out and lunbricate the steel crossbar using T9 or similar lubricants.

Step 7- Reinstall the crossbar by setting the crossbar on the press fit cap on the inside of the extrusion corner

Step 8- You can now use the soft mallet to press the corner back in by gently tapping it back inward

Step 9- You can now use your #3 screwdriver or drill with bit to tighten the extrusion corners. You may also remove the wooden block propping up the extrusion.

*Note: Take care to make sure the corner is hammered all the way back in so that you do not strip or break the screw when re-tightening.

Step 10- Reinstall the front hinge bushings and hardware

It is easiest to use the soft mallet to press the bushing back in and then insert and tighten the Allen head bolt.

Step 11- Reinstall tent lifting struts. First you must prop open the tent, this is much easier with 2 people but if you do not have someone to hold the tent open you can prop it open with a large 2x4. Here I have the tent propped with a spare steel crossbar:

The crossbar is not long enough and definitely makes it much more difficult to do so I recommend using another person or something that is long enough to prop the tent all the way open.

Now I drilled a hole in a small wooden block to use to press the strut up. The hole has to be small enough to not cover the strut ball openings.

Using the block you can press the strut up into place on the ball mount attached to your extrusion

Now you can reattach the strut clips removed in step one. Make sure the strut clip is inserted all the way into the ball cup and extrudes from the other side.

You have no completed removal, cleaning/lubricating and reinstallation of the front crossbar.

-Big Mike


I assume you all don’t coat everything in the T9 Boeshield prior to finally assembly because that would be an added cost?

Also, should the new aluminum crossbars still be serviced with the T9 Boeshield? I haven’t seen one in person yet, but it appears the bottom of the crossbar is left open for full drainage. Nevertheless, would the pins and crossbar still benefit from such lubrication?

What makes the GFC platform so great is how everything is modular and can easily be serviced. I plan on having mine a long time. Given how OCD I am about my stuff, it ought to age nicely :slight_smile:

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We do not currently coat the steel as we use aluminum crossbars as a standard but we did at one point coat everything. Currently we only coat the interior of the steel frame.

T9 is a great particle inhibitor so it may be beneficial to do it to keep out debris but is absolutely not necessary.

I will continue to add some GFC official maintenance and How-To’s to keep you all running smoothly. I will get some videos done as well, this just happened to be much more convenient at the current time.


OfficialMike - Are steps # 6 through Step # 12 correct for the FRONT Steel Cross Bar?

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They are not, I can remove the verbiage about the pins but other than the pin verbiage the steps are the same.

Should be good to go, I only currently have the photos of the rear bar but re-installation is exactly the same minus the hardware in the rear tube.

Nice job on the writeups and great pictures to help explain them.

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Very descriptive instructions and pictures. Thanks Mike for putting that together.

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Thanks, Mike! :+1:

For anyone struggling to seat the parts during installation, this worked for me.

When I removed the rear bar on mine to address the stuck pins, I ended up using a large furniture clamp to press the bar & frame back together. Tapping with a dead blow hammer bounced things around without fully seating the bar, and I didn’t want to rely on the screws to draw it together.

I’d also recommend using a screwdriver to break a screw loose and do final tightening, if possible. Chewing up a screw head, stripping the threads in the aluminum extrusion, or snapping a screw would make for a bad day.

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I too recommend a screw driver but if you just like to throw caution to the wind you could use a drill as well.

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