I’ve been getting tons of questions from people on Instagram about how my RTT is mounted to my cap, so I figured I’d just post all the info here and be done with it.
Background:
I’m running a 2020 raptor with my GFC RTT mounted to an RSI Smartcap EVO. I did this for a few different reasons. Mainly because the wait time on an RTT worked out perfectly for a trip I had planned, and if I switch vehicles down the road (new Bronco?!) then I can transfer the tent to it. I will say that, while it’s worked out great so far, the complete GFC camper would be a better option. I bought the RTT through Mike, at Spirit of 1876, and we had the tent mounted in less than an hour. Super easy, if not slightly slow going at first, since you have to get everything lined up just right.
How To:
The way I have it set up, the RTT is mounted directly to the RSI cap with GFC’s Universal Rack Mounts. They’re the standard ones available on the GFC site. We had to drill holes in the universal mount, since the standard ones weren’t quite in the right spot, and then we attached the mounts using standard t-nuts that you’d use for most roof racks that can be mounted directly to caps. Then you just set the RTT on the mounts, and it attaches using the same side clamps that all the mounting kits come with.
Takeaways:
This setup mounts suuuuper flush to the roof, so it might not work with all types of caps. Standard cab height leer, ARE, etc caps will probably need spacers so that the RTT doesn’t contact the roof. The RSI is about half an inch to an inch taller than the cab, so with the mounts, the RTT is around 1.5 - 2 inches about the cab. I’ve hammered this truck in a lot of different terrain (I’ve broken a lot of different stuff…), and I’ve never had any issues with the tent flexing or contacting the roof. That’s part of why I chose the RSI cap. It’s steel, so it can handle the added weight of the RTT, and has very little to no flex. It also has a much higher static and dynamic load capacity than a fiberglass cap. Again, not as good as a complete GFC camper setup, but it’s worked really well so far. I would say that the main disadvantage is the weight penalty compared to a GFC Camper. It’s probably around 50-100 lbs heavier all together than the OG GFC XL would be.
Thoughts? Questions? Anyone else interested in, or currently, running a setup like this?
I already have the RTT on my 4Runner and I plan on having the same exact setup as yours on my Tundra. Did Mike do the “custom” provisions needed with the Universal Mount?
Care to share how it was done? If Mike did the work, then I wouldn’t mind bringing the mounts to him as I’ve worked with him before.
How do you like the RSI cap? Did you compare this at all to the RLD shell? There’s limited info on the RSI since it’s new and although I’m leaning towards the RSI, I’d like to know of any quirks with someone that has one.
There wasn’t much to do in the way of customizing. Mike did the drilling, since I was living out of my truck and didn’t have tools at the time. It was super easy. The only things you need are the universal brackets that GFC sells, and basically any generic t-nut. Mike already had the t-nuts.
I love the RSI. It’s definitely on the heavy side, but they claim it has a roof load capacity of 750lbs, which is like triple a leer cap. The windoors are excellent, the locks are the best in the industry (other than maybe the ones on the GFC’s), and it does a great job of keeping dust out. The only place I get dust is from the tailgate, because ford’s tailgates don’t seal worth a shit.
As far as RSI vs RLD, don’t buy an RLD… The fitment is terrible on them, the fit and finish is bad, the locks suck, and the QC isn’t very good. Ask Mike from Spirit about some RLD stories:joy:… There are very few quirks with it. It goes together super easily, the quality is amazing, and the fitment is perfect. Pretty impressive all around. I think that the pricepoint is fair for the quality you’re getting. Mine was maybe the third or fourth sold in the US, so I had to wait to get a wiring harness for the rear light, but they’ve since fixed their supply chain.
I’m trying to set mine up similarly! New to me RTT. I’m trying to keep my roof rack as I can still store 1 plano box and my maxtrax up there making a pretty nice step up front to back.
These plates helped me get it home but definitely not the end all be all solution. I’m just worried it won’t clear my roof rack, and that’s only at most 1/2" over the top of the tacoma shark fin. Does anyone know if they make the aftermarket tracks go length wise?
New to this forum, first post. But found ya’ll searching for mounting options to an RSI. Just got the tent, waiting on the brackets. I’m only waiting on the brackets because I misunderstood what mounting option I needed. GFC was awesome to deal with. So stoked to put this on.
Any experience with the GFC Rack Mount bars direct to RSI SmartCap on a Gladiator?
Here’s the issue- the 54.75” GFC Bars make contact with the SmartCap side windows when all the way open.
A 3/4” riser between the SmartCap rails and GFC bars will probably solve this.
Anyone have a solution?
Not apples to apples but I can tell you front runner feet or RSI feet on the cap track plus the RTT aftermarket crossbar mounts (which sort of act like their own crossbar) would give you clearance. Currently mine is (was, picking up my V2 next week and sold my V1) RSI cap + RSI feet and crossbars + GFC aftermarket bars on top. This allows the windoors to clear the tent and even clears a 6ft roam awning when packed up. Mine is of course on a Tacoma, so YMMV. I am debating removing the RSI bars and mounting the GFC bars to the RSi feet, which would drop me about an inch but then my awning would touch, just barely with windoors open. Also I would be maybe 1.5inched over my caliraised roof rack.
I also like that my current setup I have 4 mounting points between the RSI bars and GFC bars spread evenly across the bar.
