Hoist and Lifting Lugs to Remove Camper

I like to remove my camper in the winter so I can throw a snowmachine in the bed. I built a pulley system in my garage for one-man removal (basically a beefed up rip off of a Harken Hoist). I originally built this for my old fiberglass topper so the pulleys aren’t exactly where I want them, but it works pretty good!

I use the hoist to lift it off, then set it on 2x4s underneath to take the some of the stress off the aluminum extrusions (and for extra safety factor since I park my truck underneath it). Also allows me to lower it back down to open it up and dry out.

Just some hardware store pulleys, paracord, and a boat winch.

Access to some CNC would make the lifting lugs a lot prettier, but a jig saw and drill can get the job done too!

Added some spacers so I could use 1/4-20 t nuts. Lugs should be able to handle about 2000lb - I believe the t track would rip out before the lugs would fail. They also make great tie down points when throwing the canoe up on the beef bars!


Nice! Any reason you didn’t mount the lugs lower so that the top isn’t relying on the hinge and locks to hold it on?

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Great question - if I were to do it over I would make them taller and mount them on the lower extrusion.
Honestly I was just trying to minimize the material I used. And leave the lower t-tracks available to slide around other future attachments. I didn’t think the upper extrusion would flex as much as it does - and I didn’t really think through the fact it would put stress on the hinges and locks.

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I just use pullies at each corner. They are attached to the gfc with cord looped through the convenient v1 holes.


That’s fair haha I like the idea though and may steal it :slightly_smiling_face:

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y’all trust these extrusions WAY more than i do. i am sitting here looking at these pictures and imagining my gfc falling on my legs or worse and killing me. that upper extrusion is for light accessories and with beef bars is intended for downward force - not upward.

eeeek… just sling the frame with some nylon webbing or go around the entire front overhang… or at least put the things on the lower extrusion. the weight of these things could straight up kill you… be careful!

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First let me say - I agree that suspended loads can be super dangerous, and I do not stand underneath my GFC until I string up the 2x4s underneath for extra support. Looks like adv_riggs had a similar idea with some webbing straps.

That said… aluminum is a lot stronger than you might thing. I’ve spent a fair amount of time playing with 80/20 and have always been impressed with how strong it is. But once I saw how much the extrusion flexed under load I got a little concerned and actually ran a few calcs (I’m a mechanical engineer and a bit of a nerd…). These extrusions are custom, but pretty similar to 1x3" 80/20. Modeling it on 80/20, each extrusion should be able to hang ~750lb. T-nut tear-out for 1/4-20 should be somewhere around 500lb ea. Disclaimer, these are just some napkin calcs, so don’t take my word for it - be safe and be cautious.

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Good Mechanical Engineer! I always say 1/4-20 is good for 700Ibs of camping force.This is in shear and it’s extruded so :man_shrugging::warning:.
How are the V2 RTT attached to the lower frames on this? If I remember correctly on my V1, the RTT looks bonded to the steel tube frame. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

just saying be careful. plenty of people who might want to copy this idea ARE NOT mechanical engineers. i think that top rail is not engineered for this purpose but that’s only my opinion as a non-engineer type.

I say do what GFC does at install because they know their best. just my $.02