I did use the search function, and scrolled down a couple times, did not find exact topic.
I’m not a solar expert, just been using portable solar panels (100w and 200w), into my jackery (300, 500 and 1500). Mainly for weekend camping and hunting trips, never more than 4-5 days but mostly weekends. I was running 100w foldable panel cable directly into my jackery 300 and 500, and getting about 70 percent input with optimal sun.
With the GFC, I was thinking of drilling the hole and using an SAE connector plug, with an SAE to 8 mm extension in the bed, to plug into the Jackery. I just got the cables and tested it. From the panel, the 8mm plug goes into SAE plug into connector that would be mounted on exterior of GFC. On inside, the SAE extension cable goes about 8-10’ and has 8 mm male plug to go into Jackery. I’m now getting about 30-35 awh input. I anticipated some power loss with the plugs and length of cable. Is this typical and is there a better cable/plug option? I am now just thinking of drilling the hole and using a rubber grommet, as I had initially planned, and going straight from panel into jackery. When not in use, I’d make a plug for the hole.
Thoughts from the brain trust here? Pics of the SAE plug/cables and the other grommets I have picked up. As of now, no holes drilled…yet.
Any time you add cable length the circuit resistance goes up (you have to add both the feed and the return lengths to the calculation) and the voltage drops, you really should have unregulated panels, and install a good MPPT solar controller inside the camper, to power your Jackery. That way you get a really high voltage inside, the controller takes care of stepping it down. You get VERY minimal power losses this way.
Yeah, I’m aware of the length of wiring decreasing power. Just didn’t realize it would be that much. I’ll probably toss or give away the SAE stuff. ugh.
I am no expert, but wonder if you can find an online calculator to figure out what the loss should be and compare? Would hate to see you redo things and end up with a similar issue anyways due to something else.
As much as I’d like to have a “plug” connection on the outside of the front panel for this, I may just use a hole with rubber grommet, to just pass the cord with 8 mm plug direct from panel into jackery. No connection, no extension, etc. Just straight from panel to battery. I’m just trying to think of ways to “cap” that hole when not in use. Either a bolt with washer painted black passing thru the outside and a nut and washer on the inside. Seems almost too simple. Not as clean as a plug, but it would serve my purpose versus spending any more money and time on options, all of which will cause at least some loss in power.
And I can’t be the first person who has done something this simple with their GFC. The previous owner just used rubber silicon to hold the cable going over the frame/under the top corner of the driver side panel, into the bed area. Looked a little too janky for me.
You need to be very particular about what AWG wire you are using when you are doing solar. Always use a voltage drop calculator to size your wire. You want to be less than 3% drop.
But this sounds like a few other issues combined. The 8mm barrel jack and SAE plugs are probably contributing some extra resistance as well. Also a 100W panel is going produce 100W in peak sun in Arizona if your’e lucky. 70-80W seems normal. 35 is concerning.
You should be just fine plugging this straight into your Jackery, though. It has a built in MPPT so don’t see why you would need an external one. But I am not a solar pro. Are you seeing 35w into all your different jackery models?
Did a test in my backyard with a small (12v-30Ah) LiFePO battery, 100w panel, Dometic fridge, Victron 75-10 SCC. Ran for three days continuous, opened the fridge several times a day, it was about 90F ambient for the high each day. June, in Phoenix, panel tilted, aligned south. Max output I saw was 94w, clear blue sky, 7% humidity. The power curve was heavily dependent on the position of the sun, only saw +80% of rated capacity for 5 ish hours. At 6am in full sun but obviously at an oblique angle, it was only 18-25w output.
Angle of the sun on your panel is a big deal.
Yes, I know it peaks at 70w, which in my case is largely dependent on the Jackery. It puts out 65-70 max on the Jackery 300 and 500, as those batteries limit input for safety reasons. The 1500, however, will allow more input and thus, I run my 200w when I’m using that one.
Have you tested it with the Jackery at different charge levels? Just thinking that maybe it slows down input once the battery is close to full.
If that’s not the case and the 35w was in full sun, then I think your connectors are the issue. Might be corroded contacts or just a poor connection. Having the wrong 12/14AWG wire instead of 8/10AWG wouldn’t drop it 50%.
Thank you. I used 10 gauge where I could find it with one connection being 12. Hadn’t thought about whether Jackery being closer to fully charged impacting input. Thank you.
Anderson connectors by design are self cleaning, the spring loaded arms stay tight and also “wipe” each other every time you use them. This is why ham radio guys use them exclusively. Not so with SAE and especially not so with the various round ones. Drop one in the dirt and you will swear when it completely clogs with gunk. They have no place on a portable solar setup, they are fine for a fixed panel on your roof.
Change all your connectors to Powerpoles, remove your onboard controller (probably a PWM) and with an aftermarket MPPT controller mounted in your GFC you can then use 50 feet or more of 10AWG extension cable and still get 7 amps from your 100 watt panel. This allows you to find shade for the truck, but still place your panel in full sun.
