Show me your solar set up

Mine has held up so far pretty good. I went thru all my cables and put the sheaths on them that protect them from uv.
I’m finding my fridge ( iceco jl42 ) with half capacity inside of primarily soda water cans will stay at 34*F constant and draw from my goal zero 1000x overnight ( roughly 12 hours without sunlight) 25% -30% of my battery. My truck is in the sun in the am around 8, and the battery will be at full capacity by lunchtime(noon or so) . The 2 x 100w renogy flexible panels are a nice addition to my camper, stoked to have it. When i dont need the fridge, i just unplug the fridge from the goal zero and that’s it, super simple.
Temps in socal have been in the low 90s mid day, when parked into the sun i dont really feel like its any hotter inside than without the panels on the roof.it actually gives me a nicer shaded area since light doesn’t penetrate the panels, so depending non how far back you mount them, i have mine on the back 2/3s. I get darker shade in the most used area of the camper.

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I plan on running my panels to a bluetti ac200max with a built in MPPT. This should be sufficient for what I need. I’m also running dual batteries so eventually I may have a switch upstream from the bluetti to switch between the 2. By the way. Renogy and BougeRv are both having Black Friday pricing today still.

You bet, it’s totally separate from the truck. Not too interested in going down the rabbit hole of dual batteries, isolators, etc.

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200 Watts of solar into a National Luna25 Power Pack with 100ah lithium battery

Has anyone found a roof gasket that is just barely big enough for cables? I have limited garage clearance and had hoped to do a gasket but the renology one is ~1.5 inch tall which isn’t going to work. I only need the truck in the garage when I work on it (only level surface) and already have to air down or have it loaded to fit :joy:

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I went a different route on my setup. Used flanged SAE plugs to pass the wires through. Panels are held on with VHB tape. 1" at the front, 1/2" the rest of the perimeter and a couple strips in the middle.



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Yes! This is exactly what I need to do. Thanks for sharing. Where did you source the port through the panel? I also hadn’t realized cables could run through that rear support tube, ha, so thanks for that

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Using those tubes cleaned up my setup tremendously. You can stuff quite a bit through them too. I use the driver rear tube as well, for a small lighting harness.

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Too simple?


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For those of you running the flexible panels glued to the roof, any failures or issues over time with those? I’ve read online that those panels don’t tend to have that long of a life span, especially in places that get a lot of sun and high temps (like Utah, where I live).

I considered this, but ultimately went with a rv waterproof gland and drilled a hole in my roof top on front passenger side. Ran all my lines along the side to there, then in the gland, and the bend happens inside on the right of the pad, then down the slot between the first and second section. It’s just big enough to fit a 8 gauge covered in a sheath, as well as my gecko LED 20 ga wire going down.

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I’m running 2 x 100w renogy flexible solar panels on my camper here in so cal. So far, its been great. I get when uncovered sunlight, 180w to my goal zero. When its full is the issue probably, because the panel wont convert the heat to electricity, since it has nowhere to go, so the panel will just cook essentially.

I had a 100w flex panel conformed to the roof on my old Tacoma and I live in Vegas (~115° summers with a black roof). It was still pumping out full power when I sold it last year. I would imagine it’s still kicking. This pic is from the install, Jan 28, 2017.

Also, flex panels lose life the more you play with them. The cells crack if you bend too far/often. If they are mounted, it’s no different than a rigid panel.

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That is really good to hear, thank you!

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Accidentally deleted my post. Anyways. Installed 2 100w panels today with blind fasteners for a cleaner look. Homemade aluminum brackets for the panels. I also built all my crossbars with acquired parts. The crossbars with brackets cost me around $180 total for 4 of them. I am pretty happy how they all turned out. Next is my wiring for the panels.






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Super clean! _______

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what ladder is that…

what ladder is that?..

Did you have to wire in the connections from the solar panels to the inputs going into the canopy? The connections from the panels and the pieces from Amazon seem to be different fittings.

Yes. The Amazon SAE connectors come with the “male” and “female” (bulkhead) ends, so you just cut off the male end and wire that into the solar leads. It eliminates those bulky MC4 connectors. The SAE male end is barely the size of one MC4 terminal.

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