What up GFC crew? I am unit #1262 and have my pickup scheduled for 4/2. Super stoked!
I have been researching on what kind of electrical set up to configure in my GFC. Does anyone have any suggestions for a relatively simple battery or solar set up that doesn’t require too much space or wiring? I am thinking that a goal zero is going to be the answer, but wanted to check in here.
Thanks!
Dane
i run a single group 31 battery thru a blue sea M-LVD (low level disconnect) and blue sea fuse box for my accessories (lights and 12v in truck / camper) and fridge. have a voltage booster for the 2nd gen (listed below in TW thread) - we move daily and i carry a NOCO GB40 as a backup.
my buddy drove to Patagonia (8 month trip) with similar setup except he has solar to help the battery when needed
I second with @d.shaw for the M-LVD and blue sea fuse box. It’s simple to run 12v power to the back and with minimal wiring when thoughtfully routing. I have lighting and a 5v USB port running on the block. Which is all I need at the moment. But, having your backups when running on the main is always a good idea.
I used to run a Goal Zero Yeti 200x which was nice and compact. But having things streamlined and one less thing in the back was satisfying for me.
I ran my power to the back like this
Some great info here. I definitely will be following this thread!!
i used an overland equipped mount for mine, i dont have a ton of stuff - front lightbar, rear lights, power to my drifter (so internal lights for it, usb) 12v into my center console for my fridge (dometic CFX3 55IM mounted to 40% rear seat delete)
i may add a solar panel if we start staying at one spot more than a night but currently we keep moving
I don’t have my camper yet but I have a super simple set up in mind using a Jackery 1000, hopefully it works! Goal zero sells this 4x 8mm dc input splitter so I’ll have a solar panel plugged into one, the jackery 12v plug into a 12v dc outlet in the bed that I tapped from the trailer aux wire, and “shore” ac power plugged into another for that rare occasion. Will have to unplug from the truck once I get where I’m going but it should be enough to run my fridge for a couple cloudy days before I’d need to start the truck and plug back in. You could easily do this with a goal zero power station. I’m going to use a portable solar panel for now, I like the idea of being able to pull everything out in a couple minutes!
Waiting to schedule pickup and install of mine, but the way I am planning on electrical seems the way you want to go.
I have a Yeti 1000 that will be connected to two solar panels in parallel. Some lights, like camper/bed lights will be hard wired to my secondary battery under the hood, while other things like phones and such will be connected to the Yeti while sleeping.
Driving, my ARB Fridge will be connected to my bed power, and once I stop somewhere Ill be switching it to the Yeti.
Might be simpler on you (no need to remember to make the switch) to run your fridge full time off the Yeti, with the Yeti plugged into the bed power so that it can recharge while the vehicle is running. That’s what I do with my Jackery, charging it off the 120V inverter in the bed of my truck when driving. If you are running a 12V line that isn’t tied to your ignition switch, you just unplug the Yeti when you stop at camp.
That is part of the plan. However with the solar panels plugged into the yeti as well, I worry it will be too much charge at one for it to handle. But I am unsure of this aspect of it.
If I CAN do both, then my god this will be perfect.
Email Goal Zero and verify, but that’s the purpose of the charge controller (although they are limited by just how much power they should have coming in at any one time). You could also bring both power sources (truck running or solar power) into a switch. When driving, set the switch to truck power, when at camp put the switch to solar power? I’m just kinda spitballing ideas here. I always just ran mine off 100% solar because I was always running around the southwest with plenty of sunshine…
I will most certainly contact them. Appreciate the ideas! I am illiterate when it comes to wiring and electricity, but I have a good friend who does this stuff all the time. a switch sounds like a very good idea also 
Ill be kind of all over the place, mostly northeast though so Solar will only be so good sometimes haha.
@Mjolnirare you living in your gfc? do you stay in one camp spot for long periods of time ? what vehicle are you in - just curious
I have also not picked up my GFC (1254) but am working on a somewhat modular power system. It is a work in progress but will have 30a DC-DC, 500w (max)solar input, USB charger and cooling fans. This will support a 270ah “homemade” LiFePO battery in a separate case. The actual switches and controls in the GFC will be mounted remotely in the rear. The idea was the components can be transferred to a van build or something in the future if needed. Trying to avoid 120v/inverter but I have a circuit available if required. Shore power and battery conditioning is provided by a permanently installed battery charger in the engine bay.
I will be for weeks at a time. I’m a rock climber so I travel around the country climbing and staying in campsites between 3 days and up to two weeks.
I’m in a gladiator
I like the quality of your work here. As a former auto electrician your quality work warms my little black heart. Very interested in seeing this whole thing fleshed out. Happy travels!
Hey Dave,
Thank you! It’s actually competed and working great. I can go 6-12 days on battery. I have posted on a few threads but I to make a build thread to keep it all in one spot! I will post some pictures below. Definitely not “simple” but it was cost effective for the amount of capabilities.
Does anyone have any experience with the ArkPak or National Luna Battery Boxes?
I’m trying to figure out if I really want to commit to a fridge plus battery setup and I know that I do not want to connect anything to my truck permanently (Ie not running a true dual battery setup). I want portable power charged only by solar or at home. This is realistically for weekend style outings.
I thought going with a group 31 deep cycle battery plus one of these boxes might be a good alternative to a Jackery or goal zero or ecoflow etc but after looking at the pricing and thinking about lifespan and weight comparisons I’m not so sure anymore.
I am looking at the arb zero 63qt fridge. That says it has a .8 amp/hour draw. I’m rounding that up to 2ah to account for temperature differences and the opening and closing of the fridge.
With a group 31 130ah battery that I prevent from discharging more than 50% that means I go dry after about 32 hours. With 200watts of solar that converts to roughly 60 amps per day (is this stat really accurate?), I’d be able to theoretically go on forever.
With a gz 1000x, discharged no more than 80%, I have about 72 usable amp hours. Same would apply in that I could generally go on forever (or until that dreaded string of cloudy days).
The price honestly ends up being somewhat similar. Maybe about 500 bucks more for the lithium vs the group 31. Down the road when I have to replace the battery that may seem a little short sighted though.
Does anyone have any thoughts and or real world experience to share with a similar setup? Any critiques on the numbers/assumptions?
Thanks
I run an Engel 45 off of a Jackery 500. My gladiator has has a 110 outlet in the bed so I plug the Jackery into that to charge the battery on the go. On a hot 24 hours, the Engel will consume 12 amps which is 50% of the Jackery capacity. I’m usually on the go everyday so It is a perfect setup for me and under $400. If I start to basecamp, I can add a 100w panel for $200 and in two to three jours of sun I would have replaced the Engel 24 hour draw.
I considered dual batteries but this was far less expensive and much quicker. I use my truck as a truck so I’m not interested in a full on camper with wired accessories in the bed. Your needs and uses may be different though.
I run a battleborn heated 100ah group 31 battery in a National Luna DC25 power pack with 200 watts of solar and I’ve never ever gone below 13.0 and thats with running a NL50 dual fridge/freezer full time and a host of other crap… Ive set it up so that it can be run off alternator, solar, or shore… completely removable if necessary but my intent is for it to be permanent
Good info. Thanks for sharing that
