Tacoma and Weight

I am sorry to bother those of you with GFCs on something other than a Tacoma (and I am familiar with the GFC thread on TW, I just choose not to post there). Have you folks weighed your rigs? I just weighed on a CAT Scale during a road trip (so packed with general camping/fishing/hiking supplies) and came in at 5700 lbs with about 4 gallons in the gas tank. My truck is a double cab long bed offroad (so heavier out of the factory); it has an aftermarket front skid, a console safe, and usual repair/recovery stuff stashed around, but other than the GFC, there isn’t much to it. Folks with the fancy solar set ups, cabinets/trays, full armor, bumpers/winches/swingouts, showers, bidets, etc…you are surely over weight.

What are your thoughts about this?


What are your concerns specifically?

If it’s slowing down, upgraded pads and rotors help or go big and spring for a BBK up front.

If it’s rigidity in the rear you can box, plate, and brace the rear frame.

Or is there something else you are concerned about?


Being over GVWR is an issue with any vehicle that you drive on a public road.

If you are in a crash or collision and your vehicle is over GVWR you can be cited and even put at fault regardless of the situation.

Also, the manufacturer of the vehicle designed it for a certain weight and all testing was done at or under that limit so it pushes you into operating a vehicle in a an untested situation and this can affect braking distance, frame stress, vehicle stability control systems, etc, etc.

If you are off roading exclusively then it doesn’t matter, but if you are operating your vehicle on public roads, you really should pay attention to your weight and the GVWR sticker on your vehicle.


Valid points. However if you really build out your rig you’re going to blow past that and there isn’t a lot you can do about it other than size up.

On the stress concerns, that’s where boxing, plating, bracing, and gusseting come in.

BBK’s can help with braking as well if that turns out to be a concern.

I agree that it’s an important thing to be cognizant of but at the end of the day any adventure rig is getting driven on public roads (I doubt anyone is towing to the trail) and has to be built according to the demands you place on it.

Also it’s not hard to blow past it with just normal supplies and a 300lb camper. Drive careful and don’t hoon your truck if you’re worried about frame stress. Folks have been pushing rigs way over GVWR far harder than most with few issues as long as the proper modifications are made.

Here is a good forum link to EP where it’s discussed quite a bit:

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Yeah, open ended question to see what I should be asking about. I assume there is a reason that this is listed for vehicles such as brakes, suspension, tires.

No surprise that if I’m just now figuring out how much my truck weighs, I have not done any of the things that you mention.

All good man! @ZR2_GFC is correct saying that GVWR plays a part in how the truck is designed to perform and can effect handling, braking, etc. There’s a lot of good info in that Expedition Portal article about it as well.

And to be honest there’s no real need to do most of those things, especially if your only hitting the occasional fire or gravel road to go camping or fishing. If you plan on diving down the off-roading rabbit hole, those modifications will come into play more but if you do your research and figure out what you need you’ll be just fine!

I will say that upgraded pads and rotors are a good starting point if you want a little extra help in the stopping department (it will be mild so don’t get your hopes too high). At the end of the day, be aware of the extra weight and know that your braking distances have increased and you won’t be able to turn on a dime.


My Tacoma with a hybrid front bumper/winch, sliders, IFS and trans skids, rear bumper with swingout, and a GFC was only about 200lbs below GVWR. That’s a pretty basic build by most TW standards. I towed a 3500lb trailer with my Tacoma fully loaded and more than 1000lbs over GVWR from Alaska to Colorado and had no problems other than 10.5mpg. I offroaded frequently with the truck at GVWR and didn’t have problems. I made a cannonball run up to Tuktoyuktuk with the truck over GVWR and didn’t have problems.

It is possible to stay under GVWR with a Tacoma and a GFC but it takes very careful planning of mods and gear carries to do so.


lots of concern about being over GVWR… you all out of CA or something?

last i weighed myself i was going through a truck diet… had 35s, bed rack, RTT, steel F&R bumpers, steel skids IFS, Mid, Tranny and gas tank. i was approx 6300lbs

swapped by front bumper to aluminum, all skids to aluminum and redesigned the bed rack setup… but then i added heavier tires and i was approx 5800lbs.

overall i think the GFC weight is comparable to the bed rack and RTT i had before… so i’m around the same i bet of 5700-5800lbs. this is before adding camping gear.

upgraded brakes are definitely a must. i went with the EBC upgraded pads and rotors. i have a new set of calipers i’ll be installing this weekend since my curret ones have 260k on them and i think it’s about time.

the other issue i had over the years being weighed down is the stress on the gears… i’m not easy on my truck and the gears have taken a beating… i’ve now upgraded my rear axle to a dynatrac prorock 60 and now have zero concerns about the strength of my R&P. next concern up the line is the u-joints and cv axles…

adding a crawl box has helped to control the truck while offroading putting less stress on my components and i am very selective when using my front locker so i’m keeping the stress down on my front steering and drive components.

oh and if you are concerned about losing power… just add a supercharger :slight_smile:


Weight matters.

I cringe when I see what people pile on smaller trucks like a Tacoma.

Handling, braking, mpg, wear and tear all are negatively impacted by excessive weight. Being one pound over GVR is not make or break, but eventually there is a limit. This is part of the reason I got a gfc. There are measures that can be taken like upgrading brakes, bracing or similar. At that point some people maybe should have bought a full size truck instead of a Tacoma. A full size truck is tougher on tight trails though.

Everyone that has backpacked knows every little thing weighs something and it all adds up quick.


Thanks for that link. As, I’ve looked into this, I realize that perhaps I should have gone with a Tundra in terms of payload.

Although that said, only around 1/5 of my driving is with the camper loaded for trips, and of that time, only perhaps 1/10 is 4WD and 1/10 of that is 4WD low. It is much more common that I am driving with an empty bed or at most a rifle/skis/fishing gear.

So the answer would be to own a Tacoma and a Tundra …and of course a sports car, an electric, and might be nice to have an RV as well.

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I was curious about this topic, and just weighed mine earlier this week (before my re-scheduled installation that was to happen TODAY, 3-27-20, until Colorado locked us down). Mine weighed 4,900 lbs with a “plate” and fridge/stove drawer slide in the bed (maybe 100lbs?). I appreciate the link, and will read up to learn more about it. I may have been sitting in the cab when they weighed it, but my 200lbs will probably be there when I’m wheelin’ later, too. :slight_smile: Stay safe out there.

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Reviving an old[er] thread.

I have a 2021 Tacoma TRD Off-Road DCSB. It has a MAXIMUM cargo + occupant weight listed on the door frame as 990 lbs.

I also have a GFC camper. I’ve added a few smallish items (child’s seat, drawers in bed, Yeti cooler, aluminum roof rack bars, vent fan, ladder, running boards, etc), certainly nothing too outlandish. BUT, these added up and I have over 600 lbs in this truck now (half is the GFC), not including people or any gear. I will certainly exceed the weight limit with 3 people and gear.

What are others doing about this issue? I don’t want to open the pandora’s box of upgraded suspension, but perhaps SumoSprings would be wise?

Alternatively, perhaps I can sell off some of my extras including Westin running boards and brand new Martin Off Road roofrack with Recovery boards…

More pointedly, is this an indication that the GFC camper is just too heavy for a new Tacoma TRD Off-Road or is this making too much of the GVWR?


I don’t see the GFC as too heavy for a tacoma. Put a GFC on your tacoma and feel free to add another 660 pounds. The trick is choosing those pounds wisely. Other campers are heavier than the GFC, as a general rule. Have fun and camp.


Ha, yes. No blame on GFC- it is certainly one of the lightest. Just wondering why Toyota made the new Tacoma TRD Off-Roads with nearly the same carrying capacity as the Prius.

Part of the reason I’ve revisited this topic is for non-camping use of the truck. I used to be able to put a “reasonable” hitch weight on it. With the GFC and camping gear, that has pretty much disappeared. I suppose there’s always the option of removing the GFC for work and putting it back on for play!

sad. that’s 2 Americans a sack of big macs


Don’t threaten me with a good time!


Taq, I ended up putting Airlift airbags in the rear last May, and in January, I added the automatic pump to keep them inflated as conditions change (after I ran one “flat” and it got punctured–the airbags leak slowly over time).
The airbags stop the rear-end sag, but do NOT increase the GVWR. If I pack for a longer road trip and throw a couple of mountain bikes on a hitch carrier, I’m overweight. Going overweight in my 2018 DCSB Tacoma is too easy to do…I may add improved brakes to stop the heavier weight as my next upgrade.

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Good to know :+1:. I think I’m going to try the cheap(er) sumosprings option for a little while and also shed a few pounds. I may be over the GVWR when bringing the bikes or canoe along (or with trailer), but not all the time. And they should reduce a little strain on the springs and help a little with bottoming out on some of the larger bumps. Appears to be no right answer here except purchasing a larger truck :man_shrugging:

update: I installed Sumosprings SSR-612-47 (black). I previously had completely stock (TRD offroad) suspension and the GFC and accessories (approx 400lbs of persistent weight) made it sag about 2-3 inches. Now it’s nearly back to normal height and rides like it did when unloaded. I haven’t towed a trailer or loaded up fully, but I think this is a really cheap and functional band-aid option for those of us not wanting to commit to more significant upgrades!

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