I like the idea of using a draw latch/lock, but what’s to prevent someone from unscrewing the whole assembly with an Allen or even just cutting the rubber latch?
1 Like
I guess I don’t really understand why the need to lock the tent. If they want to get in they’re gonna get in through a panel either way. Plus most of the thieves that would try to get into our camper would look at it and have no idea how to pop it open. Whereas hanging locks off the spring pin assembly will definitely draw their attention. Unless the concern is with the spring pins failing and by locking the extrusion it will mitigate this? Otherwise I see no reason to lock the tent.
5 Likes
Price is on the website: Products - 4WD-Mod.com. Its two pieces of laser cut 12-gauge steel (designed specifically to work with the GFC T-slot spacing, the GFC mounting hardware, and the latch mounting hardware) that is then custom folded and then powder coated. All that plus the draw latch ($21.30 each after tax and shipping for a 10 unit order) plus the draw latch mounting hardware plus a reasonable profit for my work in designing and sourcing.
If you don’t like the price, you can always make it yourself.
Its not easy to get to the GFC mounting hardware…would require a small socket wrench to loosen. I suppose someone could take bolt cutters to the padlock but that also takes time and would be somewhat obvious to onlookers. Same for taking a saw to the rubber latch body.
If you don’t feel the need to lock the tent, then this product is not for you.
Nice simple solution…if you can keep the padlock from rattling and beating up the extrusions.
30 Likes
Wow super clean! Best I have seen yet for sure.
2 Likes
That’s how GFC is now serializing the campers. Hopefully they can add that on the prior campers as promised:
4 Likes
I drilled a new hole specifically for the lock. You’ll see both the lock and gfc pin in the photo. 
I picked up my Gofast camper last week and noted the tent latch already had pre-drilled holes! I was then able to use a trailer coupler latch lock (right diameter). I did have to use a dremel to cut off the excess locking shaft but I think this is going to work for me.
The only downside is each lock has its own key…oh well, I don’t mind carrying an extra key.
1 Like
Where did they promise this? They’re charging $50 to do this now for older campers
Definitely seems like the quoted post does acknowledge that the serialized part can be added retroactively, but doesn’t seem to imply it would be at no cost.
1 Like
Looks like you cut the longer length pin to where it just sits at the edge of the lock, I’ll drink a beer in your honor tonight!
I did this same setup, thanks for posting your solution!
1 Like
I’m pretty sure I found this somewhere in the forum, I took out one of the spring pins, enlarged the hole slightly and have used a Curt 23520 Trailer Tongue Coupler Lock (I added a couple rubber washers from the hardware store to tighten it up a bit).
1 Like
If you leave the locks on and proceed to open up the side panels, it does not hit.
If this was aimed at me, I just had to slightly enlarge the hole left from removing the spring pin. No additional hole drilled, and can reinstall the spring pin later if I want.
1 Like
Thanks for linking the lock. Best solution IMO and it looks likes its part of the camper! Holes are pre-drilled on the newer V2’s, so all you need to do is cut down the lock pin.
1 Like
