Tent lock solution for the V2


I just got my GFC V2 installed 2 weeks ago and the V2 no longer comes with a factory tent lock.

Has anyone been able to find a good way to lock the V2 tent? Thanks.

Cameratech has a good option in this thread about half way down. I’ve done this, and it works great.

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Awesome. This looks like the perfect solution. Thanks.

Any reason people, or GFC for that matter, don’t just drill a hole in the latch below the plunger and throw a pad lock on? That’s I’m thinking of doing but I’m a bit concerned that no one else has done that. There is a thin section I assume I could easily sink a drill through and find a pad lock with the right dimensions to get around the latch and through the hole?

GFC, am I crazy to think there is plenty of material to hold if I put as big as a 1/2” hole into the latching mechanism towards the bottom?

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I’ve also been wondering why GFC doesn’t mount one (or preferably two) lockable draw latches on the rear extrusions. Something like this:

If only used for locking (with OEM pins for holding the tent closed), only one is needed. Belt and suspenders with two. The rubber latch arm keeps the padlock from rattling. I checked and I don’t think the holes line up with the extrusion T-slots…some form of mounting bracket is required. All mounting hardware is covered when the latch is closed and locked.

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So here is what we are thinking for a set of draw latch brackets. Basically two folded 12-gauge hoops that have holes for the GFC dogbones. Mount the brackets to the T-slots with a small socket wrench, then mount the draw latch pieces (there are two) to the brackets. When closed, all the latch mounting hardware is covered. The latch arm itself is rubber and will keep a padlock from rattling. Overall height when installed is 5.7". Either one or two sets can be mounted on the side extrusions.

Had to modify a little to accommodate the GFC dogbones inside the brackets and changed the depth to match the UMB. Confirmed (with GFC) the t-slot spacing between the upper and lower extrusions. There are three mounting holes for the draw latch hardware with an additional fourth hole that has to be drilled using the latch hardware as a guide. Will powder coat matte black to match UMB.

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I feel like a padlock bouncing around on dirt roads would be both loud and scratch up the camper.


Perhaps you didn’t see that the body of the latch is rubber which will keep a padlock, even one that doesn’t have a rubber guard, from rattling. The padlock is separated from the RTT extrusion by 1.5” so the extrusion is protected.

Recommend something like this for the padlock.

I drilled a hole through the latch and threw a pad lock on. The set up in the photo wouldn’t be great for driving around. For that you’d want to use heavy duty Velcro or magnets to reduce the amount the lock would swing around.
![image|375x500, 50%](upload://okjVqtJgab3x4ivDsbaIsCMXPX6.j
![image|375x500, 50%](upload://6mi096nEumvXWrsSkZRJKqjTkq7.j



A locking pin for a trailer coupler or hitch pin might also work.


Finally have pricing for this bracket set and draw latch. We have posted it to our website: Products - 4WD-Mod.com. If you are interested in purchasing send us a note via the site.

Do you have a picture of it on a GFC?

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Also interested but would very much like to see the “finished product”. Thanks!

It’s $18 for the lockable draw latch on McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr
How much are you charging for 2 pieces of powder coated sheet metal?

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I like the idea of using a draw latch/lock, but what’s to prevent someone from unscrewing the whole assembly with an Allen or even just cutting the rubber latch?

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I guess I don’t really understand why the need to lock the tent. If they want to get in they’re gonna get in through a panel either way. Plus most of the thieves that would try to get into our camper would look at it and have no idea how to pop it open. Whereas hanging locks off the spring pin assembly will definitely draw their attention. Unless the concern is with the spring pins failing and by locking the extrusion it will mitigate this? Otherwise I see no reason to lock the tent.


Price is on the website: Products - 4WD-Mod.com. Its two pieces of laser cut 12-gauge steel (designed specifically to work with the GFC T-slot spacing, the GFC mounting hardware, and the latch mounting hardware) that is then custom folded and then powder coated. All that plus the draw latch ($21.30 each after tax and shipping for a 10 unit order) plus the draw latch mounting hardware plus a reasonable profit for my work in designing and sourcing.

If you don’t like the price, you can always make it yourself.

Its not easy to get to the GFC mounting hardware…would require a small socket wrench to loosen. I suppose someone could take bolt cutters to the padlock but that also takes time and would be somewhat obvious to onlookers. Same for taking a saw to the rubber latch body.

If you don’t feel the need to lock the tent, then this product is not for you.

Nice simple solution…if you can keep the padlock from rattling and beating up the extrusions.

Reese Towpower 7042100 Adjustable Coupler Latch Lock , Black https://a.co/d/7BJUlTQ


Wow super clean! Best I have seen yet for sure.