Looking forward to getting the GFC V2 installed on Thursday.
Was just informed by GFC’s install shop that they won’t be connecting the rear brake light (too complicated for the Rivian R1T) and that the interior LEDs won’t be wired/connected.
I know it can be done… but
a) i am no electrician
b) it’s a pretty high-end purchase for which i kind of was expecting that to be taken care of
Am I overthinking this?
GFC doesn’t wire any of the rear brake lights. Some of their partner shops may but you definitely aren’t in the minority there. No idea about the Rivan but the Tacoma took 10 minutes.
GFC may seem high end because they are expensive but in the marketplace they are probably mid to low end campers.
What is there to think about? They aren’t going to do it so you gotta figure it out yourself or pay someone ($ or beer) to do it. If you wanted a camper that is 100% dialed in when you purchase it, GFC should not have been your choice since it is relatively bare bones. The work/customization is half the fun.
Thanks, appreciate your perspective. I need to get creative!
Some manufacturers leave a wire hidden somewhere for wiring up 3rd brake lights on toppers and such. Check your owners manual, it may be straight forward.
look up my build log or my post on rivianforums
feel free to DM me if you have questions for the Rivian
For reference, most places won’t wire stuff up for you
SuperPacific is using a light sensing module that has to be plugged into the 12v to work for the Rivian
yeah, that’s what i figured, thanks for your thoughts!
i’ve been putting off wiring mine, the splice kits are rather janky. is there a wire harness that plugs into the 4 pin trailer harness that gives you just braking? or possibly a smarter 3rd brake light that can plug into a 4 pin and replace the stock 3rd brake light on the camper?
Diode dynamics and I’m sure many other companies have brake light wiring harnesses that are plug and play with either the brake light or the trailer connection. If you want to go that route should be easy to use one of those to get you up and running.
Pretty pleased with this solution, a cheap 48’“ flexible tailgate lightbar fits snugly into the T track of the camper. Have a 3rd brake light, turn signals and reverse all plugging into my 4 pin trailer wiring for $13.51. Drilled holes to bypass the hinge of the rear door. Feels more elegant than the splicing kits for just a 3rd brake. Any tips on what to put in place of the GFC 3rd brake light, there are three holes in the alloy panel?
I kinda agree this is a problem. I haven’t purchased a GFC yet, but I’m hoping to before next summer. I’m here to learn before I commit that amount of money.
@HighVoltOverland has THE solution for a Rivian (my vehicle). It’s a great solution, but I’m hesitant because touching the wiring is a route for Rivian to deny warranty claims for any electrical problems in the future. I’d rather not mess with that if I don’t have to.
My plan for the time being is to wire power to an independent battery system instead of the cars 12V. I can buy battery with a solar panel, and top it up with the Rivian’s 120V power supply in extreme situations.
I still haven’t figured out the brake light signal. I like SuperPacific’s solution of pointing a light sensor at the top brake light. I don’t have the skills to engineer something like that myself, but I might be able to find someone who can.
Let me be the devil on your shoulder and entice you do it.
I had my 12v die out of warranty a couple months back and took it to the shop closest to HQ
(IMO, the least likely to be “cool” about letting stuff slide since they are so watched)
No questions, comments or concerns about any of my 12v splicing.
Also, I learned about that wiring point from my Rivian employee buddy who stated Rivian used that location to wire up the extra lights on their mobile service trucks.
Additionally, not that you want to have to pull it, but since the battery system is warrantied, this would be the exact situation that Magnuson-Moss protects the consumer.
Unless they could prove that a 12v tap somehow ruined the system, they have to continue to cover it under their warranty.
I do have a bluetti AC300L from a pervious camping rig that now floats in my truck, but that is so I don’t use go juice to cook or power my fridge (and it works as a super inefficient e-jerry can to get me 6 miles of range, and slow solar charging for days at camp)
You’re probably right.
I put my electrical/mechanical skills at having an 80% chance of doing this with no issues, and a 20% chance of causing damage to the truck. Including introducing annoying squeaks and rattles from dissembling things. I have some DIY skills in this area, just not much experience.
I’d still value a solution that doesn’t involve DIY disassembling the rear seat and gear tunnel, but your path is the obvious one.
Did you decide not to sell your camper?
