For those of you who don’t want to drill any holes, I have an option I can show you how it is done.
Inside the glass, protects the camera, works perfectly. I didn’t do it to avoid holes, honestly, but just didn’t like the looks of having that tiny camera and exposed wiring on the outside. Everything is tucked in, protected, and I actually have an option to install a small Marin windshield wiper if needed to keep it clean, something you can’t do if it’s on the outside.
The mount is a 3-D printed part I found on Etsy, marketed for lone Peak campers but works perfect perfectly on go fast. Honestly, I think it may be better on GFC.
I’ve got one mounted the same way on a smart cap that’s on my work vehicle. That window is tinted pretty dark as well. Camera seems to function just fine, and I actually think it helps quite a bit at night cutting some of the glare down. That said, if I got my GFC rear window tinted as I plan to, I’m going to ask the tinter to leave a cut out for the camera.
I plan on ordering one of these mirrors. Does anyone know which bracket is needed to mount on a 2016 taco? All the mirror mount’s I see are for 2018 and newer with the updated rear view mirror?
For what it’s worth, they usually ship these things with large rubber stretch bands that attach it to your rearview mirror. So in principle you don’t need a mount - it just straps on. You can kinda see the straps in this thumbnail. Install video.
For mounting on the camper, I make a GFC mount for the Wolfbox rear camera. There are actually quite a few different mounts to choose from these days from other community members, too.
I second what shadesbro said. Get the dongar adapter for power, it works great and makes for a clean and easy install. I used the UMF mount for the rear camera on my GFC.
I have used the wolf box add a fuse, the Dongar is just a more plug and play option for folks with a auto dimming rearview that uses pre-existing wiring for power
Not quite sure what you mean but maybe it will help if I clarify,
The add a fuse kit is so you can have the wolf box on a keyed circuit, so it allows for the wolf box to not be always on ( although there is an always on/ security/dashcam wiring option if you want that functionality)
the add a fuse would not interact with a rearview circuit in any way
The dongar adapter uses the wiring that exists on some vehicles that have 12v running to the rearview mirror to enable photochromic auto tinting
their website states it is limited to Toyotas, some Hondas and some Subarus
The benefit is that you don’t have to run additional wire from the dash/ fuse box location up a pillar and into the the headliner
the dongar adapter crapped out on me after a while that was were i first had it plugged in and just one random day the camera started rebooting itself so i switched to hardwire.
I’ve been powering my Wolfbox with the dongar adapter for over a year now and it’s still working great. Easiest way to power a Wolfbox by far. I’d recommend it.
The difference between it and the Wolfbox power kit is that the Wolfbox kit requires you to run a power wire from the fuse box to the mirror. The dongar adapter taps (plug & play) into the wiring for the stock mirror and adds a usb port to power the Wolfbox or other dash cam. Easy peasy for installation. Also have one in my wife’s car for her Garmin dash cam.
