I modified it a bit after. It is designed for a Buckpuck, 12V barrel jacks, and an MXR switch.
I can’t offer much in the way of support but I threw a .step file in there so you can modify the geometry as needed. Good luck!
I modified it a bit after. It is designed for a Buckpuck, 12V barrel jacks, and an MXR switch.
I can’t offer much in the way of support but I threw a .step file in there so you can modify the geometry as needed. Good luck!
I see the message was deleted, but to the other 94 owner, I love my GFC (out using it right now), my gears are stock, and you’ll need to remove your 3rd brake light/taxi light on the truck. Hope you post your build here eventually.
Lol i posted that before i was able to go thru all of your other posts. Thanks for responding even though i had deleted. I was already looking into some air ride options for the rear when i was restoring my truck so looks like that will be a good add. Your set up is awesome and has given me some great ideas…
What did you do to cover up your 3rd brake light?
Its been a work in progess… cant wait to get my white GFC Camper on it… looking forward to following your build till then!
Holy shit, I am so jealous of the 4WD and quarter windows on that beauty!
I’m actually still working on a custom cover. Had to remove the first one to mount the camper, and I taped over the 3 holes. Thought I’d fix it quick, but it’s been 10mos now. At some point when I have to take my camper in for service and it gets removed, I’ll put my custom cover on there.
Going back, I’d just hack the plug off, stuff the wires inside the cab/headliner, and silicone over the holes.
Working on an updated rack to get the GoalZero off the floor. I end up sleeping in the bed more often than the tent so a clear floor is worth a lot to me. Also needed to make room for my new water system which is based on a Cornelius Keg.
Modeling the GFC with its compound angles was a hassle, took hours. But I got everything within a few mm without using my 3D scanner.
This is why I love the GFC community. Out here designing and tinkering with new stuff. So sick.
Yep, using the well nuts on the front panel, clamping on the diagonal brace, and the extrusion strip on the front. The amount of design effort needed here was surprising tbh. I was hoping this would be a one-day project but it took the whole weekend.
Tested it out last night on some bumpy roads. The rear window is blocked a little more than I’d like so I’ll need to brace right at the apex to keep the bedding from pushing down into my view.
I haven’t drilled holes in my camper yet, but the time is coming! I think if I go that route, I’ll machine some custom aluminum bosses that give me a flat/square face as well.
You know, I drilled a hole in the front/cab side panel for the solar entry. Had forgotten about that.
I also had similar dreams of full-length extrusion track.
I tried my custom covers with an extra inch of hard foam. Looks like they will probably work with the new mattress upgrade from GFC. I am very tempted to buy it now that I know I can reuse my covers.
If you start selling them, ill take one for my 94 too! Bad ass rack btw.
I don’t think there’s any way I could make that economical but I could potentially share some plans/measurements to make your build easier since our campers should be really similar. Lots of 3D printed parts in there too…
@hota and I were talking about electrical, and he suggested I use Xt60 connectors for power distribution. I had to try it. So far I like them much better than any other connectors I’ve seen.
This is the point in the process where having even partially modeled the GFC frame and my extrusion frame starts to pay off. Making accessories is fast and easy.
One of these Xt60 ports is now routed to the back of the truck bed. It powers the Dometic and the lighting. I still have multiple ports to route around for powering other devices.
Nice! I have access to 3 printers at work… if you are willing to share some of your STLs. lol.I think having my spare power bank and sleeping stuff that ill access alot, would be awesome to have it up in a rack like that.
Got my water intrusion fixes done yesterday at GFC Orange County. Kyle did great work, and fast. In and out. Hilariously, halfway through the service we started having downpours here in Southern California.
I saw a new camper there, this is what the new parts look like on the latch side:
Here’s what the fixes look like on my Dec/Jan 22 V2 on the hinge side - simple and straightforward.
I also cut up the old 3rd brake light and made this horrible cap to cover the holes. I had to cut the connector off in order for the cap to fit. Kyle was extremely kind and helped me get the camper out of the way so I could install this. Five star service and much appreciated.
Picture makes it even uglier than it is, and it’s ugly.
Installed.
Electro-optical upgrades all over. Fixed the tail lights, replaced marker lights with LEDs, got environmental lights in dash working again, replaced license plate lights… optics and LEDs everywhere.
I have a Thinkware F800 pro dashcam - it’s more than paid for itself, as I’ve been rear-ended twice and both times the other person lied. After installing the GFC, the rearview cam was still mounted in the cab, meaning I had no rear view. Finally moved it back to the topper. Cable was just long enough.
I was not real happy with my backup camera, but I had come to rely on it. I decided to try a replacement. I added a Wolfbox G930 (rear view mirror dashcam) as a backup camera. I have it fully installed like a real dashcam, and on all the time, but I’m using it as an always-on rearview mirror. Not sure I like it yet.
Much better image quality and field of view than my old camera. I did have to buy the WDR rear camera, the one that came with the 930 sucks, and also 6 foot extension cable to get it wired in.
I have to say I made at least one mistake involving this mirror. I did not connect the red reverse sensor wire. My thinking was that the red wire was superfluous since I always use it in mirror mode. However without this wire connection, the reverse lines do not appear on the display. This might not sound like much, but there is a HUGE DIFFERENCE between looking at a screen and a mirror - you get no depth information from the mirror.
I plan to hack this mirror to have the red reverse wire connected all the time, so that the lines display all the time. I also plan to add a small, optical rearview mirror.
Continuing my saga of making really bad and expensive electrical decisions:
Goal Zero 1000x has failed for the second time (this is my second unit). It’s a POS. Can’t take the heat, can’t take the cold (only good to 30F/104F) – I did not see this when purchasing.
Second Sunpower flexible panel has spontaneously failed. I wouldn’t ever buy another flexible panel for roof mounting purposes. I would only buy hard panels and hard mount them 1" from the honeycomb surface.
After reading many complaints about goalzero and a few other makes, I went with Ecoflow Delta 2 and haven’t had a single problem. Granted, I haven’t put it through any extreme temps though. I have a small dual-fuel generator I can run for less than an hour and completely charge the Delta 2, but I like it enough that I’m planning on buying either another Delta 2, or the Delta 2 Max as I keep adding things that require power.
Also, my Delta 2 came as a package deal with the 220W Solar Panels and I’ve liked not having hard-mounted solar panels so I can occasionally loan them to my son or use them around the house/remote cabin.