I might be misinterpreting your picture, but it appears the cabin air inlet (left side of heater?) is sucking in “case air”, which relies on a variety of fittings in the exhaust to not leak to be safe, as they may do over time.
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That’s correct, cabin air is inside of the case.
Yea that should be pulling from outside the case. If exhaust leak or backfire occurs it’s getting blasted right in the tent. His old design had fresh air pulling from outside like mine.
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I’m a little more worried now. I know in looking at original pictures I didn’t have these worries, but the design changed. I’ll have to follow up with @YonaAdventure, I know he’s enjoying some mountain time right now!
Update: Spoke with Ben and he’s been more than accommodating. We are going to do some testing and monitor a few things without us sleeping in the GFC before making any changes. He’s put a lot of research and thought into the design.
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It’s worth looking into, even if it’s just to know that it’ll be safe 5-10 years from now too. Not a lot of room for error but these heaters can be very safe and last a long time!
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I’d print it for you no charge. I have a bunch of abs plastic that is decent in UV, but they make some uv clear coat you can spray on for extra assurance. Shoot me the file @ josh@jedf.us and I’ll take a look and see if it looks set. .stl is good for me.
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ill 3D print it for you, ive got some PC that does well in the sun. You can always paint over it too. If you want to swing by and snag the part when it’s ready. Let me check the .STL file when you get a moment. Those threads look “fine” but id like to see how the object looks.
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Again…. I gotta state that I’m loving the collaboration and support that we’re all providing each other with.
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Question for those who may have purchased and received the heater from Lolo Overland, I’m wondering if you can shed some light on the circular connectors they use for power and the controller to bring cabling outside of the box.
I’m thinking it looks similar to something like this:
CNLINKO 3 Pin Connector
Id test a print that someone doesn’t want. Doesn’t need to be UV rated, i wont install on the outside of the camper.
no need to have seperate connectors. You can buy waterproof 5 pin connectors.
keegancdr@gmail.com ive got some stuff im looking to test fit on a GFC side wall, How bout I print this and then we meet up to exchange.
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Thanks for this! I was just looking at your build video again and realized that’s what you did.
Mine is a non waterproof 8 pin connector, but I just place my heater under the truck been fine for 2 years.
You will want something like this for water proof
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Looks awesome @the_philxx !
I have limited knowledge but I’d base it somewhat around the materials you want to be able to print. Some of the more interesting ones required headed beds, higher temp nozzles, and enclosures.
Looks great but number 1 thing i can say is tolerances are not always the same in software vs printing. Make sure to give yourself some room for material sizing.
When buying a printer pick up something with an enclosure and heated bed so that you have some options on materials
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Yes. Very happy with my creator pro. I’ve got the hot end swapped with metal parts and glass plate. I would suggest adventure 4 as a more beginner friendly (quality) FlashForge
Yes to flash forge for me too. I order filaments from them directly. Seems a little more money but I have had issues with some cheaper options.
I could be wrong but don’t you want the combustion air taken from inside the box? Not the fresh air intake but the intake opposite from the hot blowing air. Doesn’t this improve combustion efficiency? From what I heard the combustion inside the heater boxes burns off any fumes from the diesel. It shouldn’t mix with the heated air because it’s combusted air. Seems they would burn more efficiently. It’s already having the fresh air intake from the supplied line. I could be totally off but that’s my understanding of these portable diesel heaters. John Mck 47 explains the scientific process which I’m trying myself to understand.
Here is the excerpt from the European ECE regulation No. 122 from the Eberspacher S2 installation instructions. Seems to be the only proper install “regulation.” Having the heat air intake inside the case is typical, and If all the combustion side hoses are tight and installed correctly its OK. Some trucks and boats have this same setup in tight cabinets with a vent to allow airflow to keep the unit cool as the heating air is drawn past. The Planar heater from Expedition Outfitters also has this setup. I’d be more concerned about drawing exhaust into your intake regardless of whether it’s coming from inside or outside the case.
The combustion air/exhaust must come from outside. Heated air intake draws from the area you are heating. This is most efficient as you are recycling pre-warmed air. Some units measure the inlet air temperature to control the temperature, requiring recycled air to get an accurate reading. A GFC is such a small space; having fresh or circulated air does not make much difference unless it’s freezing. This also provides the most separation from the exhaust.
If you are looking for dry air vs. heating efficiency a cold air intake could be preferred. But cracking a vent or roof fan dries everything very quickly.
Just my 2 cents…
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