Changed some of the clearances and adding mounts to work with the GFC/Gzila track nuts
@Eisenheim Has a very similar design he sells and they are on sale right now too. Seems like you have all the skills/equipment to do it yourself, but for folks that don’t: https://www.etsy.com/shop/3DProtoLab?coupon=GETAGRIP
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@jedgar Thanks man!
@HighVoltOverland good design, remarkably similar. Interested to see what you make it out of!
Hey thanks!
Yeah, there aren’t very many ways to make a grab handle that has a full length surface for adhesive mounting.
I’m still pretty new to 3D printing, this was my first project to use the sketch function to make a shape that isn’t a perfect circle or rectangle
Is there any benefit (I’m guessing structurally ?) to the internal corners your design has vs just using an ellipse?
Yea handles are kind of just…handles, can’t really change them up that much. The shape is just a mix of function, form and predictable repeatability in the materials I use.
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I finally found my roll of VHB and I installed some of the little 3D printed parts I’ve made in the past couple weeks.
I designed some basic blocks to hold my awning poles. I tested using all 3d printed parts but the tension was too high and snapped the printed track nuts.
I redesigned to be compatible with the gzila hardware and its been okay, but I probably have to print at a higher infill as the pole holding hole is getting stretched by the metal rod.
I also printed the handle I posted about earlier.
It handles.
I also added some micro cord and made a super simple privacy curtain with some scrap fabric I had kicking around and made some little clips to hold the “curtain”
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I finally got around to making a better StarLink mount.
The OEM RAM track mount was too big and didn’t clamp well in the proprietary GFC extrusions.
I modeled a basic ram ball (1 inch) that has a recess for the 1/4-20 bump out on the gfc/gzila track nuts and a 1.5" 1/4-20 Hex socket cap screw
It worked okay but I noticed that it had very little camping force from the exterior. Additionally, unless I cranked down the ball could still rotate.
I added a face skirt to add additional clamping force and some wings that slot into either side of the track nut when screwed on.
Very pleased with it, it’s rock solid and doesn’t wiggle at all.
I also moved it to the lower/ upper track so it has more surface area/ friction points but still will move with the roof line as needed
I am leaving it mounted to the track full time and will just throw my Starlink on it when needed.
I like the RAM mount as it gives me multi-axis adjustability, meaning I can park in any direction and point the dish at the right angle and direction no matter where my truck is facing and whether or not the canopy is deployed or stowed
I need to figure out some index lines or something so I can “preset” the angle when the tent is up and not have to worry about fiddling with it in the up position.
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I really wanted a holder for my tent locks, so naturally I stumbled upon @Vice_Chief 's Lock Locker solution:
UMF Locker Locker Pair
I think he’s made a great product and have only heard good feedback on his set up!
But, with a baby on the way I’ve been trying to tighten the belt where possible. and figured a couple hours of printing and caliper work could save me some cash.
I started looking at some simple solutions and was a bit frustrated that my self made awning mounts were right in the spot that I think would be ideal to hold the locks.
Then I realized I could just add a loop to my awning!
Here is V1, mostly just made it to verify clearances,
I modeled a a non-ambi set, will likely use those as it helps the hardware look more centered when in use.
I’ll have to reprint in 100% infill so the pole hole doesn’t get completely blown out.
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