This is a work in process build thread. I picked up my GFC in September 2018. Work and foreign travel put the buildout on the back burner for a while, but I am back at it.
Truck: 2018 TRD OR DC LB
Phase One Upgrade - 2018
ADS Level 3 suspension with
Extended travel
700 lb coilovers
OME HD Leaf Pack
Total Chaos Uniball UCA’s
Extended brake lines
C4 Fabrication bumpers
Rear: Overland Series Rear Bumper System with BSM support, tire/hilift/gas can mounts and table
Front: Overland Series Front Bumper Full Size with center and headlight hoops
Baja Design lights in front and rear
GoFastCamper with grey tubes and black panels
Bed sheets
Phase Two Upgrade - 2019
Mountain Hatch tailgate cover
Solar / Electrical setup
2x Renogy 170 Ah LiFePo4 batteries
4x 100W Renogy Eclipse panels
Renogy Rover 40 A MPPT solar charger
Renogy 3000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter / Charger
Renogy 12V DC to DC On-Board Battery Charger (alternator to solar)
Bunch of various sized cables, fuses, circuit breakers, etc
Simarine Pico Electrical Monitor System
Monitor Tablet
3x SC302T shunt (monitors each of the “inputs”: solar, alternator, and rv hookup)
2x Quadro Shunt and tank module (monitors all of my loads: fridge/freezer, lights, USB, inverter, etc)
6x temperature sensors (inside, outside, battery, fridge, freezer, cab)
-SPOD Bantam to control lights (interior, exterior, running, fridge, other accessories)
Dometic 75dzw
GoFast Camper ladder for tent
Phase Three Upgrade - Planned 2020
Wheels
Tires
Regear
Currently waiting on:
Beef racks
V2 tent
New GFC seals/upgrade
Currently working on
Battery box layout
Simarine Pico setup and test
Designing an easily removable drawer system out of 8020
Quicks snaps of the first electrical tests. I only had a day or so to through pieces together before I trip so I made something quick and easy to test run the setup. I wanted to see how many hours I could get running basic loads. This setup only included one of the batteries and probably less than 1/8 of the electronics. My new design will be a tier of two stacked boxes for electrical equipment. The inputs and large current monitors will reside in the bottom layer while the smaller loads and fancy gadgetry such as the Simarine Pico and Spod Bantam will reside up top with the low power circuits.
The platform that the Dometic 75dzw rests on will eventually have an easily removable 8020 drawer system on the front side. My goal is to leave the right side more open for the dogs to sleep and extra gear storage when needed.
@Mike_GFCUSA Didn’t work. I still can’t edit/update my initial posts at the top of this thread. Instead of the normal pencil icon for editing a post, I am shown a number then a pencil where the number represents the number of times the post has been edited (2 or 3 in this case). When I click the pencil icon it shows a history of my edits, but does not give me opportunity to edit anymore. I am looking for the ability to update my initial posts as a table of contents like people typically do in tacomaworld.
I verified that I can edit newer posts of mine on other threads.
Thank you, hopefully I get a chance to update the post around the holidays with the first version of my electrical setup. I have all the electrical sources wired and just need to finish up all the lights and accessories.
Interior Led Light Install
I’ll post some detailed pictures after I test it out on a trip this weekend. As for now I attached a link to a video below that shows the functionality (initial video doesn’t have the separately purchased controllers, remote, or my electrical box).
Measure, cut, and connect three sections of LED strip for the upper tent portion. 2x long side lengths and 1x short width length. I made the mistake of attaching the strips to the roof before connecting them together and testing. This caused me to incorrectly place one strip in relation to the other two, essentially one strip had the 12V pin on the outside while the other two had the 12v pin on the inside. This caused me to have to create a custom connector to flip the wires. I didn’t like this solution because it was a weak failure point so I pulled the incorrect strip and placed a new section to correctly align the 12V pins in the same orientation.
Connect the three strips with 90 degree angle connectors from the kit. Test the continuity of the connectors before attaching to ensure a solid connection because some of them didn’t work out of the box until I reseated the connections. Open the connectors before connecting to the LED strips to provide good points to test with a multimeter to ensure the connection is continuous and complete. This was a pain and took the longest time. Slow is fast in this step.
Use one of the wire connectors from the kit to create a flexible extension cable that will be connected to the provided extension cable that is routed throw the cable hole in the GFC platform. Attach the LED strip, wire connector, and extension cable. Run the extension cable through the lower platform to the truck bed portion.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 to place the LED strips inside the lower frame (truck bed portion). There is a small overhang lip that runs the length of the lower platform where I placed the LED strips.
Create another wire extension like in step 3 but for the lower portion.
Use the 2 to 1 cable to attach the upper and lower LED strips. Test the functionality using the power supply and remote that came with the LEDs.
Once the LED functionality is verified install the separately purchased controllers to allow for independent control of the two zones, top and bottom. This allows you to turn on one without turning on the other with the separately purchased remote. If you don’t care about independent zone control you can simply use the provided controller and remote that came with the LED strips.
Create the necessary power cables to go from the 2x controllers to whatever power supply you have in your truck. In my case I have a dedicated electrical box that houses my Lithium batteries, solar charger, alternator charger, inverter, SPOD, Pico Simarine, and low voltage fuse block. I used quick disconnect power connectors at each end of the cables to allow me to quickly detach lights and my other electronics from the electrical box so that I can easily remove everything from the truck bed when I need to use it for hauling.
Finally had some time to take some pictures after I used 3M moulding tape to adhere the 90 degree connections. Now I just need to wrap up the power connections with some anderson power connectors. The pictures below are the RGB LED strips set to white.
I finally had time to take pictures of my electrical setup in my GFC. Winter has arrived in Idaho and to prevent unnecessary battery degradation I store my setup in my garage when not on a trip. After my initial prototype I designed this second iteration to have quick disconnects of all components (power sources, power sinks, and control) to enable for quick install and removal. It takes about 30 minutes for me to install or remove it. I’ll break this up into multiple posts to make it easier.
Background
I’m a Computer and Systems Engineer for the DoD by trade. My Master’s thesis in college involved the design and implementation of the electric propulsion system of a hybrid racecar so designing and building complex control systems has been in my skillset for quite some time. My current job mainly focuses on the software side of things, so this hobby gave me a way to get back to my roots of working directly with hardware components and design.
Overview
I created my setup in two phases. My first prototype focused on batteries, inverter, solar, and general layout. After I tested my prototype I began the process of designing the second phase to be modular, quick and easy to control, and to allow for fine tune control and monitoring of each subsystem. The end goal was to have a setup that I can quickly install for trips and easily removable for when I need to use my truck as a truck for lumber and cargo.
Power Source Components
4x 100W solar panels mounted to the top (Renogy)
Renogy 40 amp solar charge controller
Renogy 40 amp DC to DC charger connected to vehicle battery
Renogy 3kW inverter/charger to connect to shore power
Control and Sensing Components
Pico Simarine with multiple sub components for monitoring power input and consumption for each device (bluetooth app and touchscreen display)
SPOD and switch panel for controlling components such as camping lights and future additions (bluetooth and switch panel control)
Circuit breakers to individual control the connections for solar panels, solar charger, alternator, SPOD, low power circuits (lights, fridge, etc)
Master circuit breaker between the batteries and everything else
LED strips and their color controller by remote
Power Consumers
Domentic 75 DZW
2x Baja Design S2 Pros (work scene) for camping lights mounting to the top of the GFC tent. These can be aimed as needed and provide all the light I need outside
LED strips in the upper and lower portions of the GFC
2x 120V outlet
4x USB plugs
Usage and Performance
I typically use my setup as a basecamp for climbing and mountaineering trips. It provides a way for me to stay off the grid for weeks at a time. I’ve ran it for two weeks without even coming close to running out of power. I typically charge my batteries using solar or shore power at home and then rely on solar during trips. The alternator power source hasn’t been needed on any of my trips yet. Some might call it overkill but I didn’t want to worry about lack of power when I am working remotely or needing to charge all of my photography gear.
Current work
Calibrating temp sensors for the Pico
Calibrating battery state of charge for a more accurate reading
Wiring my bumper Baja Design lights to the SPOD
Adding pictures of my Weboost cellular setup
Adding LED strips to the inside of the GFC panels that can be used when panels are open
Adding small speakers and audio inputs for glamping
Updating my wiring diagram
As I have more time I will update with further information.
