Check out “explorist.life”; they have some great tools like fuse and wire size calculators along with some wiring diagrams. The diagrams are mostly for vans list I checked but has some great info that correlates to general 12v.
Only thing I might change is getting a higher end switch panel, like a blue sea, and a quality fridge. Doesn’t have to be a crazy expensive dometic but make sure to check the specs. A lot of the lower end fridges will end up being less efficient compared to nicer ones.
Thanks - I’ve already have the fridge and taken it out a couple of times. No complaints so far, other than weight. I’ll look into the Blue Sea switch and check out Explorist.
I ran three 100W Sunpower solar panels in parallel to keep the voltage low enough for the high power input port on the Goal Zero Yeti 1000x.
After one panel cooked itself, I learned that when you run panels in parallel, it’s a good idea to include diodes. This prevents a panel receiving full sun from feeding current back into a panel that’s shaded. I used these diodes (20A). They plug inline - easy.
I also use a solar cutoff switch so I’m not plugging/unplugging the panels from the Goal Zero when there’s a lot of power on the terminal.
Thanks, @Vice_Chief - my plan is to run my panels in parallel too, primarily because of the potential shading issue but hadn’t heard of including an inline diode. Definitely adding them to my build-out.
Concur on the solar cutoff switch being necessary - I have cut-off switches for each of the batteries and the solar panels.
For the solar you can get an MC4 inline fuse that can replace your fuse block.
Personally, I would not even bother with the disconnect switches. Just pull the SB50 Anderson plugs instead (As long as they are accessible).They are rated for hot plugging up to 50a.
Each device will specify the fuse required, the amperage of the device will determine the gauge of wire. Your components are similar to mine - check out my post above a month ago. This was my initial wiring diagram:
Thanks, I will do that. Also need to make a little bracket to mount a side light below the awning.
A note on this Blue Sea Weatherdeck panel - when I installed mine switch 2 was blowing the fuse. I traced the short to an issue with the Blue Sea unit itself. The jumper wire for the #2 switch backlight is a couple mm from the board ground terminal, was close enough to short it seems or there is a soldering error that isnt visable. Im not using switch backlight so I just disconnected it, works fine - no short. I contacted Blue Sea via email, no response yet.
Such a nicely made diagram, what software did you use to create this?
Thanks, I use drawio (for work and pleasure) as a free mac app, also available via website.
@hota do the switches change color red/green when on or off? Do you have a picture of the back wiring? I’ll look at how mine is wired.
Ill grab a photo, I believe the label windows just go red when energized. Not an issue ultimately since I dont use the backlight but still frustrating a premium panel like this has a short.
I used something similar to these resettable circuit breakers. For my system they replace having to have a fuse and a disconnect switch.
My simple setup is a black 100w renogy panel mounted to GFC solar tray. It feeds a 600w Bluetti. I opted to go into the cab since I have a shortbed and wanted as much space out back as possible. I really only run the fridge and charge my phone / laptop.
Next project will be to run 12v to the bed for lights.
Anyone have recommendations for solar power banks that can handle more extreme climate conditions?
Meaning at least 0F to well over 100F?
Look for a battery with a built-in battery manager and heater.
This is the battery I’m using with a RedArc Battery Manager. It will discharge from -4 to 140ºF and charge from -4 to 113ºF.
The only flex panels Ive been told to use is the CIGS. All the other have issues. Im going with 2 100w CIGS with adhesive.
