Thanks, @Vice_Chief - my plan is to run my panels in parallel too, primarily because of the potential shading issue but hadn’t heard of including an inline diode. Definitely adding them to my build-out.
Concur on the solar cutoff switch being necessary - I have cut-off switches for each of the batteries and the solar panels.
For the solar you can get an MC4 inline fuse that can replace your fuse block.
Personally, I would not even bother with the disconnect switches. Just pull the SB50 Anderson plugs instead (As long as they are accessible).They are rated for hot plugging up to 50a.
Each device will specify the fuse required, the amperage of the device will determine the gauge of wire. Your components are similar to mine - check out my post above a month ago. This was my initial wiring diagram:
Thanks, I will do that. Also need to make a little bracket to mount a side light below the awning.
A note on this Blue Sea Weatherdeck panel - when I installed mine switch 2 was blowing the fuse. I traced the short to an issue with the Blue Sea unit itself. The jumper wire for the #2 switch backlight is a couple mm from the board ground terminal, was close enough to short it seems or there is a soldering error that isnt visable. Im not using switch backlight so I just disconnected it, works fine - no short. I contacted Blue Sea via email, no response yet.
Such a nicely made diagram, what software did you use to create this?
Thanks, I use drawio (for work and pleasure) as a free mac app, also available via website.
@hota do the switches change color red/green when on or off? Do you have a picture of the back wiring? I’ll look at how mine is wired.
Ill grab a photo, I believe the label windows just go red when energized. Not an issue ultimately since I dont use the backlight but still frustrating a premium panel like this has a short.