I am using the DIY 8020 beef bars and Z brackets similar to these:
I ended up making some brackets out of 2” x1/8th” thick aluminum stock. I cut the 4 pieces about 6.5” long and drilled a hole for the track stud and two holes for the panel on each bracket. My panel sits about 1/4” below the beef bar. I left about 1/8th” of space between the panel and the beef bars. I can still use the bars if needed and the panel will be protected. Not the best pic, but if anyone wants to see more I can accommodate.
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Did you use GFC’s Track Studs to mount this plate to you beef bar?
Thanks,
Dave
Yes, that is correct.
For those who have mounted additional batteries (lithium) in the bed, how are they being held down?
What are they anchored to? I am building a wood base and am looking for a tray of some sort to secure the battery down.
I’ll see if I have a picture when I get home, but I just removed the hook from one side of a black rubber bungie. Screwed that to the wood, then installed a hook on the other side. Then you just strap it over. I learned you definitely want to secure it, especially if it’s in the very back corners. The vibrations may cause it to rub through on something, or worst case scenario you hit a big bump sending the battery airborn to do whatever kind of electrical damage it wants…fire, blown fuses, cracked battery…you get the picture, LOL.
Mine are bolted down to my 80/20 frame which is bolted to the rings in the Tacoma bed. Works pretty well and is solid.
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I guess another question I should have asked/clarified is if anyone is using a battery tray to prevent rubbing on anything (wood, aluminum, 80/20 bars, etc). I plan to get a SOK but they are not a standard battery group size which makes it hard to find something to seat the battery in.
I have mine between my 80/30 frame with thick pad foam and also wedged on my thick plastic storage tank. I have no worries about it moving or getting damaged. But I guess mine is built in a custom bench. I recommend a battery case or something to protect the battery. My bench protects the battery and my fuse panel
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@Taka Thanks for this write up. I’ve been following this thread for a while jotting down notes and ideas. This is my first time attempting a solar set up - When I saw that electrical engineer from the DoD’s post the other day I totally lost faith in myself. Ha! I’ll be running a small fridge, Matt Gecko LED lights, most likely a fan and then want a couple ports for charging a cell phone/iPad. I think this set up will work for me. I’ve used SpOD systems in the Jeeps that I’ve built and I think I was leaning towards that for the fuses and power switches because it’s such a nice clean install.
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@msmtngirl, no problem! I know many people posts very expensive solar set up and sometimes not all can afford top brands such as Battleborn.
I like Waize, it works and maybe less than half price. If I was doing this from the scratch, then I would go with 200ah. Amazon 200w solar works great as well.
If you need any help of electric diagrams, please let me know!!!
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@jasont, I used thin aluminum sheet 1’ x 2’ from Home Depot for the battery for rubbing. Not only for rubbing, but I surrounded the entire electric cabinet with the sheet for in case of any issues. It works well!
What hardware are people using to mount to the beef bars? All the hardware I got from gzilla and gofast sits to high in the track to to tighten down???
Just picked up the BougeRV CIGS 200w panel on amazon for $395 shipped. Pretty good price, looking forward to this, as I am already almost touching my garage height so i need something flat.
It was Rich Solar 160w @ 540 vs this at 400. Hopefully BougeRV warranty is good…
FYI - Rich Solar was having delamination issues with their CIGS panels. Earlier this year, they published this video instructing users of their weatherproof CIGS flex panels to affix “outdoor weatherproof tape” to “create a proper seal”.
You may want to check if there’s any similar issues with your panel.
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I have my 100ah SOK mounted in a milk crate. A strap holds it in place. Aluminum angle stock attached to the base supports a partition which creates a storage compartment next to the battery. A bolt through the aluminum screws into a plusnut installed in the floor to secure the crate to the truck bed. A lid on top of the crate enables me to stack gear over the battery and maximize storage space.
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I was wondering the same thing, Llcooljake? Doesn’t the wire get crushed by the door? I just looked at my door (GFC is 6 weeks old) and it appears there’s not enough space to close door if wiring is fed through there.