I had a similar issue when I had wired my Baja Designs S1’s to the rear of the camper extrusion. I had the wires going down between the frame and rear door. After a few trips the door eventually rubbed through the wire loom, heat shrink AND wire insulation. My solution (thanks to @Herrmann552 ) was to drill a small hole in the circular/oval? part of the frame on the outside and inside of the camper, sealed with RTV. Have not had leaking issues and have had 0 issues. Sorry I don’t have pictures to attach.
@troutguy It looks like @Llcooljake has a V1 camper. I believe there was a bit more room between the side panels and the steel space frame on the V1 campers. They have a bit thicker rubber seals that can be compressed to allow a wire pass-through. The all-aluminum V2 has tighter clearance in that area.
I suggest doing a search on this forum for words like “wire gland” to see some examples on the V2. Either bring the wire through a hole in the front panel or in the roof of the tent.
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Thanks - good options. Cutting through the silver corner fitting seems scary to me (as was done by Herrmann552. Not that cutting through silver fitting won’t work but I’m open to other approaches.
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Here is my solar setup. I ran my cables through the front panel using bulkhead connectors. I was thinking about running through the white honeycomb but it just wasn’t as clean, I would need to bend the cables which are pretty think and could possibly damage the honeycomb, too much risk of leakage over time. I also used a different mounting bar set, works with 1 or 2 panels.
I had the Redarc and battery for a few months to run my fridge, charging from my alternator.
Redarc BCDC1225D
100Ah Lithium battery
Just added solar (all items from Amazon except mounting)
Renogy 100w panels 2x
Renogy Panels mounting bracket set 2x
Renogy Y Splitter for parallel wiring (1 pack, 2 pcs)
Renogy 10awg 20’ cable for connection (1 pack, 2 pcs)
Panel mount cord grips 2x
Custom mounting crossbar system (considering offering it for sale if there is interest)
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Added a Y splitter today along with @jedgar solar brackets. Everything installed perfectly and the brackets are solid!! Also put on his latch on brackets as well. Killer buddy!!
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Just out of curiosity why would you not put all of those connector under the solar panels and just have 2 wires coming out?
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You could run the panels in series and only have 2 wires instead of… 12?
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I wouldn’t be able to access the connectors because of the clearance of the panel to to roof. I agree though. Looking for a cleaner look.
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Yea I thought about that but I want the option to always have 2 mounted on the roof and then when I want to add the other portable ones I can always choose to add them.
I have the same setup tape and panel. No issues very easy setup Just routing wires inside is different for everyone. i routed from the front to the front of the cab.
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Updated my wiring set up. Cleaned it up a lot and installed 2 separate inputs for 4 panels. Much better and sleek. Quick disconnect from solar battery and panels.
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I did that before but my quick connect is too large. Besides my Molle panel hides it all. 
Collaboration between myself and Tiny Rig, a local shop. No holes in my GFC.
(2) 126w Xplor panels
Redarc BCDC1250
Victronic Smart Shunt
Blue Sea fuse block
Battleborn Battery.
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What did you use to secure them to the top of your GFC?
They used a really strong adhesive and then Sikaflex caulking to seal the edges. These panels are flexible.
Most solar panels are like old school Christmas lights. Take one bulb out and the rest of the lights go out. Same thing happens with most solar panels. Cover part of it with shade and the rest of the cells are worthless.
These don’t do that every cell is isolated. And, the wattages are under rated.
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I’ve never had issues with mine even in partial shade. They still produce enough power for days. At least for me they do. Most panels run 5bb but mine run 9bb which is higher efficiency when collecting solar power even in shade.