Starlink - Pros/Cons and power draw

As I’m testing my rig in the same capacity that I’m going to use it for courses. The Starlink, TV, and heater running my current draw is about 15A DC. Make sure you size your power system to facilitate this type of draw. In this case I’m luck to have shore power, but this setup would not be sustainable without that.

I’ve been doing some reading, it seems the consensus is to have a min of 400W of solar, and 200aH of battery power for constant use. This should enable you to operate off grid for prolonged time without the use to shore or DC to DC charging.

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Runs great off of my built in AC outlet in my 21’ Tacoma. I would love it if GFC had a mount for it. I’ll read the forum but will be looking for clever mounting ideas for sure.

@Buhlockaye makes a mount for the top of the tent.

For anyone in AK or other high-latitude areas, the orbits of most satellites doesn’t reach that high and you only can see their satellites in polar orbit.

This makes the normal rectangular starlink connection drop out quite a bit. I just installed the high performance flat dish and it has had a much better time because it extends the field of view from 100 to 140 degrees. It also has much more powerful snow melt.

The downside is that the dish consumes more power, but I have plenty of that. With 4 battle borns fully charged, I could have the truck parked for over two days without any solar or alternator input.

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I use starlink at home up here and it’s the best bang for your buck.

100% the heated version is ideal for our weather. They have been adding more satellites to cover us Alaskans and it’s gotten better and better over the last 6 months.

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They’re all heated, the difference is the snowfall rate it can fend off before needing a cleaning.

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Anyone using/mounted one of the Gen3 Dishes without the power actuation? Is the best option to get the pole thingy and use one of the 3D printed mounts from previous gens posted above?

Not using them yet; but will be soon. What I would like to see is a roof quick release mount. So you can use it in motion and have the freedom to be able to move the dish to a more optimal position when stationary. I’m sure Star Mount has these designed one in some capacity.

Although risk of dish damage is real with the 2nd Gen and mobile use. On your 3rd damaged dish they start not being so generous with replacements. To be clear though only one was mobile use. The others were a deer and a refurb fail. :man_shrugging:

If you’re looking for an off the shelf Starlink setup check this out. Just saw them again at Overland Expo West and he showed me the current system. This guy is super smart and has a very well-engineered system. He worked for GFC for a while and is the one that adapted the GFC to a Ford Maverik. https://uniquecomponentry.com/

Has anyone committed and bought the all in one 12v kits such as the starmount or RoamSat setups? Asking for a friend who’s saving pennies lol

i’d like to convert my gen 2 to DC BUT here’s the thing:
I’m using the DC ciggy port on my Ecoflow Delta 2 for the fridge, so I can’t use the ciggy plug for Starlink.
I do, however, have 100W USB-C in the front of the Delta 2. Is there anyway to power Starlink via USB-C?

Roamsat seems outrageously priced unless you really want the self-contained solution. Starmount is slightly less so but still too steep for me. My dishy dually is arriving today so I should be able to report what the power draw is on my gen 3 dish running DC only using an eero and POE splitter for wifi.

@ws6616 IIRC DC converted Gen 2 power draw is somewhere in the neighborhood of 72 watts, so you could maybe get creative with one of these: USB Type C 3.1 PD to 5.5mm Barrel Jack Cable - 20V 5A Output [1.2m long with E-Mark] : ID 5452 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits, and a buck converter, which should handle the USB-PD handshake and provide you with 100W. Alternatively, you could hook your 12v cigarette connector to a fuse block and wire in the starlink and fridge, but you might be bumping up against the 10A limit on the ecoflow.

thanks!
i was thinking of using those 2-in-1 (or 3-in-1) POE splitter
let me see if i can find a converter or something for that

i think the problem here is this unit i’m looking at:
https://a.co/d/6K2yvN0
uses power and ground cables and I need to find a way to get the power and ground cables out from the one you linked.

If anyone is interested I am going to be selling a Trio Flatmount for the gen3 soon, ended up with a different solution.

Ahh, I would maybe use something like this: 10-02246 Tensility International Corp | Cable Assemblies | DigiKey with ring or spade terminals crimped onto the bare end.

You could also cut the barrel connector off the end of the Adafruit cable, but I don’t know where the control circuitry that handles the USB-PD handshake is and if that would disrupt it, so if you plan to do that I might get 2. If you’re super unsure about it it might be worth getting a cheap multimeter to double check your work on any splices before you hook it into your starlink.

BTW, I talked to Yaosheng on AliX and they said that they’re working on a dishy dualie-like product that provides POE on both ethernet ports so you could use a POE-powered router with it if you wanted.

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sounds like using the digikey cable and the adafruit cable is the easiest lol
just not sure if those 22 or 24 awg wires can handle it…

A company reached out to send a 12v conversion kit so I will be converting my to 12v and connecting it to 200ah of lithium power in the back of the bed. I also have an auxbeam panel so I will be connect the starlink to that in order to turn it on and off with BT.

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which 200ah LiFEPO4 are you going with?

Also which 12v conversion? Or is that a secret?