I’m in the same boat. Just had an email exchange with Mike today. I’m ‘in line’ for the full meal deal as well. Oddly enough, my front hinge has been zero problem. It even looks clean inside. But since they’re replacing with an aluminum option I’ll certainly take the upgrade.
Just FYI I was having that issue pretty bad late last winter, early spring. I blasted it with fluid film and haven’t seen a speck of rust since. Holding up great until front alu replacement comes. I just shook the truck side to side with both tube bolts out to get as much water out as I could and used like half a can in there. Great temporary fix since it’s always a moving goalpost with repairs. Mike did also note that using some silicone around the edge would help water intrusion, but I didn’t do that; sounds like it would work well for time being. Just did the rear too and it wasn’t hard, but wasn’t easy either. Mainly just a pain since there weren’t direct instructions.
I’m in the SF Bay area - and am sure the front tube is already filling up again now that the rain has arrived.
I removed the screws and blew out all the water I could over the summer using compressed air, and then blasted a bunch of fluid film in there. It’s still going to fill up with water - but perhaps the FF will prevent that water from becoming rusty water?
An interesting thing I observed last winter was that on clear days the sun would heat the tube up enough that you could hear air escaping and see the rusty water getting bubbled out. I have to wonder if the tolerances on my hinge are just right to hold water for a long time (thus getting it good and rusty) and then only drain under certain circumstances.
I drilled a hole in the bottom of that tube on each end. Been working fine, and wasn’t too concerned how it turned out being it will get replaced.
Also curious to see how these mobile repairs are going to work out. Sounds like it would work OK for a small fix, but I need a reseal, new hinges, and replacement tubes. That’s got to take some time.
Would like to see the official communication on how this is going to work logistically.
Also FWIW, my request a call submission on the site was never answered. I guess I’ll try yet again to get in touch with Mike.
Just saw this post, Mike. I sent you a message earlier today regarding my breaking back panel hinge. Is this traveling repair tour a good solution. Will you be visiting Seattle?
Can’t is a loose statement. When I took delivery it was fresh off the re-seal as I was one of the first batches to get it due to an earlier mess up (which hindsight lucky mine did get screwed up, cause I got the new sealing system since I was late); Mike said to open the doors as little as I had to. It’s not like opening the doors once or twice in the resealing period is going to break anything. Look at the cure time, it’s 50% strength within 3 days at 22C ambient temp. In practice this is more than sufficient if you just be careful when opening the doors. You could just remove the struts so when you open the doors there is no external loads other than what you put on it when opening it manually.
Right I didn’t mean that isn’t the proper and perfect way. But if you have to open the camper for whatever reason it isn’t going to destroy the hinge. For instance mine was in the middle of cure time when it was installed, so the doors were opened to install it. Haven’t had a problem.
Duct tape, limit straps, luck. My rear hinge held for 2 weeks like that. Sorry to see another one.
Meanwhile we are all still sitting here waiting for an announcement that a support plan is ready. An announcement that there will be an announcement is nice, but action is needed.
I have one of the early resealed units. So far its been working well. If the new system fails I’ll probably redesign the rear door so that it’ll work with metal hinges and tap and screw the side panels closed permanently. This would be more secure from break in’s . If I feel the need for more ventilation, I’ll add some opening windows or hatches. I liked the full opening side doors primarily for ventilation and light and don’t really need them for access although the cabana feature is excellent. I have an XL unit on a F-150 with the longer 6’ 6" bed and deep bed sides so its not much trouble climbing into the bed to get my stuff. It would be nice to have the option to use the sides for attaching gear both inside and outside.
OTOH maybe I’ll add a strap hinge over the plastic hinges to maintain current functionality.
It would be a shame to modify the original design perhaps hurting its resale value but I rather not spend more time waiting and taking long drives to get things sorted out.
My build # shifted around a bit. It was in the 40’s.
I poked around for hinges for a bit with my friend Google. But, I didn’t find anything that looked like it would work. All the ‘hurricane’ hinges have extra extruded flanges and such on them. I haven’t found a simple, straightforward, waterproof, metal hinge that looks like it would work. I searched McMaster Carr, etc., but couldn’t find anything.