In for some fairing mounts. What fairing are you using them with?
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Second that.
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He is using a custom piece of plastic as the Yakima/Thule ones seem a bit small for the GFC. I’ll get the details when he gets it mounted up!
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I will definitely be in for the fairing mount!
Thank you! Would be curious on the dims, I can try to do some leg work to find something that would fit on my end and post up
I used a sheet of ABS plastic and the mounts from the Front Runner fairing to make mine. I also used the rubber edge from the Front Runner fairing and added a felt strip where it touches the cab to prevent the squeaking of the rubber. Works great and reduced the wind noise a ton.
I was looking at the Stepups a couple weeks back and thinking to myself that I would order those in about .17 seconds if they only had an access hole for the mounting bolt. Then you delivered.
I am very much interested in the fairing brackets as well. I believe you can order custom cut ABS plastic from SendCutSend.com, probably even with mounting holes pre-cut if you use their online parts builder tool? That might be an easy way for a lot of people to have a fairing made and shipped to their door.
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Made up a heater hose pass through and wanted to share it if anyone is interested. If anyone wants a billet aluminum version I can work up pricing, but would be quite expensive.
The kit is for a 3" (75mm) heater hose panel pass through.
Includes:
- Inner Plate
- Outer Plate
- Cover (secures from the inside using thumb screws),
- Heater hose Flange
3D printed in PAHT-CF Plastic. Uses 1/4-20 fasteners and thumb screws (not included).
Available as the 3D printed parts (black PAHT-CF plastic) and includes the print files, or just the print files are free to download from my website.
https://jedf.us/index.html#!/Heater-Pass-Through/p/697622169/category=125311524
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These are legit!
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Yep, take my money, lol.
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Would you need to cut the aluminum side panel to make this fit?
Yes you need to cut a 3" hole plus 6 1/4" holes.
One other question. Does heat warm the tent if all the bed panels are in place?
I think the panels in place would keep most of the heat from passing through, and negate most of the reason for using a heater. I’ve been considering options on routing heat based on this post and the pics that were shared:
Update!
This is how I finally ran the duct to the tent.
When I finally camped in freezing weather I found that trying to heat the lower truck bed area was not practical because the bed was bare metal and became an ice box.
I shortened the duct to the tent and I was nice and toasty when I was in -8° weather
Duct in side the bed.
Duct in the tent. I used 3" PVC.
Removable PVC for in tent
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As mentioned by others you really want to duct up into the tent area if you have panels in. I ran with a panel out and was happy.
I might try removing a panel after I find a way to leave my wife at home. LOL
But, she is the one that picked out and MADE me buy the GFC.
After 40 years of marriage, I find my wife love primitive camping.
I don’t know if I could get the truck bed warm enough in my RAM1500.
No fancy buildout here.
Last week I had the truck bed full of mulch, peat moss and grass seed.
Hey Josh,
Just placed an order for the heater hose pass through. Much cleaner than the marine deck plate I was planning to install. Does the hose have to be installed onto the flange, or could you pass the hose all the way through and place the directional vent on inside? Thanks.
— Ryan
Hi Ryan it does need to be on the flange as the flange is indexed and attaches to the plate on the panel. If you needed an internal hose I could for sure add a flange onto the inner panel plate. Shoot me a DM if you want to do that.