A note on this Blue Sea Weatherdeck panel - when I installed mine switch 2 was blowing the fuse. I traced the short to an issue with the Blue Sea unit itself. The jumper wire for the #2 switch backlight is a couple mm from the board ground terminal, was close enough to short it seems or there is a soldering error that isnt visable. Im not using switch backlight so I just disconnected it, works fine - no short. I contacted Blue Sea via email, no response yet.
Such a nicely made diagram, what software did you use to create this?
Thanks, I use drawio (for work and pleasure) as a free mac app, also available via website.
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@hota do the switches change color red/green when on or off? Do you have a picture of the back wiring? I’ll look at how mine is wired.
Ill grab a photo, I believe the label windows just go red when energized. Not an issue ultimately since I dont use the backlight but still frustrating a premium panel like this has a short.
I used something similar to these resettable circuit breakers. For my system they replace having to have a fuse and a disconnect switch.
My simple setup is a black 100w renogy panel mounted to GFC solar tray. It feeds a 600w Bluetti. I opted to go into the cab since I have a shortbed and wanted as much space out back as possible. I really only run the fridge and charge my phone / laptop.
Next project will be to run 12v to the bed for lights.
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Anyone have recommendations for solar power banks that can handle more extreme climate conditions?
Meaning at least 0F to well over 100F?
Look for a battery with a built-in battery manager and heater.
This is the battery I’m using with a RedArc Battery Manager. It will discharge from -4 to 140ºF and charge from -4 to 113ºF.
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The only flex panels Ive been told to use is the CIGS. All the other have issues. Im going with 2 100w CIGS with adhesive.
For whatever it’s worth we have been using 3 of these now for 2 years, through plenty of abusive trees, foul weather, and countless miles on rough roads, and have only had one fail when I snapped the connection because I forced our truck under an ironwood tree that was lower than I expected. I think the same would have happened to any panel. Here’s our whole solar setup.
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I have 2 of the same renogy panels and they’ve been working great for the last 3 years they’ve been up there too.
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Old post but do you happen to remember the dimensions of the diamond plate brackets you fab’d up? Looks like 4"x6". Trying to plan it all before buying the panel.
Just went and measured, 4"x7 1/2"
Thanks for measuring this!!
Yes! I wish that there were some longer solar trays to accommodate panels in this “portrait orientation.” The GFC trays only allow “landscape” so you need 3 (heavy) beef bars in close proximity to accomodate 2 panels.
I kind of regret buying the beef bars. the 8020 solutions folks have show are lighter weight and more customizable.
I make some solar mounts that came about to solve the landscape only issue with the solar trays. They are pretty easy to fab up yourself if you have the tools/time or I sell a pack of 4
https://jedf.us/#!/SolarMount-for-Beef-Bars/p/641231769/category=113909263
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Here’s a really simple-to-fabricate idea.
I don’t think everyone knows that there’s another T-slot on the UNDERside of the Beef Bars. I use the underside track for my solar setup.
So what you’d do is take a piece of aluminum angle or angle iron and cut the edges as pictured with a hacksaw or angle grinder. Then drill an oversize hole or make a slot to match up with the Beef Bar underslide T-slot. You make four of these for two panels. You can mount the panels to the angle with screws, clips, VHB, sikaflex, really anything.
You’ll need two screws and two T-nuts per bar, so 8 screws/8 T-nuts.
The best thing about using the hidden slot is that the top of the Beef Bars sits a little bit “proud” of your panels, so you can still store stuff on top and use the bars as intended.
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