I am about to swap most of my connections out for SAE. its what I used before I set this system up… decisions were made… they were poor… haha
One thing nice about SAE fittings are the bulkhead connectors https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Weatherproof-Connecting-Mountable-Connector/dp/B08SVQ13VL/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2Y47TF4STV2U7&keywords=sae+electrical+wall+connectors&qid=1648244945&sprefix=sae+electrical+wall+connectors%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-6
240w Flexible Merlin Solar Panel from 4thD solar. Fits perfectly on the GFC and is ~3mm tall? Right now it’s just going into an EcoFlow Delta Mini, but it puts out a lot of juice in the sun, and even works enough to keep me topped off in overcast or partial shade instead of completely cutting out. I have an extra one for sale if anyone wants 
What’s the average power you see on a clear day with your setup? Looking at 2x150w panels roughly the same dimensions. Thanks
What are you asking for the extra panel?
Honestly can’t remember since I haven’t needed to use it in awhile. But I will be out camping and wheeling this weekend, so I can report back.
Here’s a post I made a few weeks ago. It’s oriented slightly differently than the photo above.
I finally had a chance to get out and test my system, so I thought I share what I came up with. I’m using a Renogy 100w panel mounted to Beef Bars using the GFC solar mount kit - pretty standard.
Cabling wraps around the front hinge with zip-tie mounts to keep it in place.
I’m routing the solar cables to a Powerwerx Anderson power pole panel bulkhead. This allows me to easily remove the panel from the truck.
On the interior of the shell, cables are also detachable, with power pole connectors. Cables are run down the support and then under the bedrail track of my 2017 Tacoma.
The panel plugs into the charge controller and batter system, again using the Powerwerx bulk head fitted to a surplus ammo can.
I’ve also integrated the threaded Dometic plug for my CFX3 45 and a digital volt meter with usc-c and usb-a charing options.
Inside the ammo can I’ve got a Relion 52ah FePO4 battery with the low temperature option, which is basically an internal heater that allows better charing and discharging at low temps. Everything is controlled by Victron charge controller with integrated bluetooth for monitoring battery status, solar input, and output loads. I’m pretty happy with how well everything fits inside the ammo can.
At the moment, this system is dedicated to powering the cooler with supplemental charging of small devices (e.g., phones, lights, etc). So far the 100w panel has kept the battery topped off during the daytime and at night, the battery voltage has yet to drop below 13.1 volts.
I would recommend not attaching the solar cable to the truck roof. If you get into some heavy washboards, the cab could pull the cable off the bulkhead. Attach to the camper instead, directly above where you have it.
I like your setup! I’m running the same panel/beef bar setup on my rig.
I’m all for Anderson Power Poles (use them a lot) but I’d be worried about that bulkhead connection. They’re not waterproof, so my concern would be driving in the rain with the panel hooked up.
I haven’t used them, but I think Anderson has some waterproof options in their bigger 70A connectors.
I use cable glands to pass through the camper panel and then terminate with APP inside the camper. I have to disassemble the APP connector to pull the cables out at the end of the camping season, so definitely not quick connect. The pic below is the best I have at the moment, you have to zoom in a bit to see the cable gland.
Thanks for the feedback @Hoooogan. I was not excited to use that adhesive cable guide on the roof of the truck and the rest of the cable run is attached to the camper. However, I found that with the stiffness of the renogy cables, I could significantly reduce the strain on the power pole connection by including a clip on the cab. I’ve done a bit of moderate off-roading and no problems so far. That said, I’m definitely still in the refinement phase of this project and that as well as the issue @Hardcharger pointed out with the weather resistance of the power pole connection are the biggest weak points.
Thanks @Hardcharger! You’re build was definitely an inspiration and I originally intended to use a waterproof cable gland for the pass through, as you did. However, I actually pull the panel much more frequently, i.e. at the end of every trip, so having the plug-in option ended up making more sense.
I’d never worked with the power pole connections before this, and the description of the Powerwerx panel connector made it sound a lot more weather proof than it is. If I can find a more weather resistant plug-in alternative, I’ll be all over it. I have looked at the SAE style connectors that other have used but I’m not convinced they will be significantly better.
Work in progress…
So I was out this weekend, and when I popped my head in the truck my Ecoflow Delta Mini said it was was pulling ~190w with the tent closed up at about 7000ft elevation on a clear day at 1pm. I could maybe? eek out another 10-15 (maybe) if I popped the tend and positioned it just right. Hard to say if it’d outdo 2 300w panels, but I used to run a single 175w renogy hard panel, and this is much lighter. And is plently to run my fridge on the daily and do some camera battery/drone recharges.
Are you running the panels in parallel or series? This changes everything.
It’s just this single panel.
That actually wouldn’t change the total watts coming in would it? It would just change the voltage and amps but watts would stay the same.
Yes you’re right. It swaps with the parallel or series from my understanding but he’s running a single panel so now it’s something else.
This is a great thread! I bought the GFC solar sleds/mounts when I got my topper… but only just got around to buying panels. Somewhere along the way, I strayed from reading threads to other threads to other threads (non-GFC)… and bought these Renogy 175 panels (2 of them). I have 3 beef bars.
So, turns out… the panels are too wide for the GFC solar mounts by maybe 3 inches. I also bought the Renogy mounts also. The Renogy mounts can work on top of the beef bars, but it puts the panels above the beef bars and a vast void of space under them, which I really don’t want.
I thought about flipping the Renogy mounts over, which would recess the panel… but then they aren’t wide enough to fit to the slots on top (or bottom) of the beef bar.
I really dig these panels for my setup, they’re light, high power… and would fit perfectly if the GFC mount was a couple inches longer.
I’m thinking maybe taking a piece of steel maybe 4" x 6", and using that on the middle beef bar… put two bolts through the 4x6 into the beef bar, and drill a hole on either side and bolt/nut the GFC solar mount to that… I think it’ll extend those out enough to support the panels and shouldn’t structurally mess it up…
I envy all the folks who are happy to dive into 80/20 and custom mounts… Those projects take me forever and I’m never happy with the results of my own work. 
Also have some Renogy panels and wanted to create a low cost flush mount to allow me to still place things over the beef bars. I elected for these simple steel mounts that are bolted to the Renogy panels in all four corners. They are bolted into the Renogy panel and then into the bottom slots of the beef bars. Got them at local hardware store for cheap.
Waiting to put them on top of the truck until I finalize the dual battery system with DC/DC/MPPT and n the coming weeks.
Will see how they hold up over time but figure that’s the advantage of low cost Renogy panel. If it doesn’t work just try and try again
I’m partial to the mount that puts the panel below the top of the beef bar. Are you going with the Renogy DCC30S?
Here’s a wiring schematic we did for a Metris build. For the GFC Camper, we plan on using a simpler design but still use most of the components (just no water pump or built in heater).
