Agree sweet build! Are you working 8 hours a day hence the starlink and playing/sleeping the other 16? I ask because I’ll need to efficiently work with my GFC/Tacoma (july install). Thanks!
I’ve used both custom setups and the Goal Zero Yeti, and each has its pros and cons. The Yeti is convenient and easy to use, but it may not provide enough power for extended use or larger appliances. Custom setups solar generators for sale can be tailored to your exact requirements, but they require more technical knowledge and installation effort.
This just arrived today thank you Amazon lightning deals
My power draw going to be very simple fridge and interior camper lights. Will be adding solar to roof top for recharging but from what I’ve read this should be plenty to handle my moderate needs for power
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I’ve loved mine, and was watching the price on Amazon and was really tempted to pick up a 2nd.
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which unit is this
Delta 2
Costco had a good deal on Ecoflow Delta Max and I picked one up. Then Amazon had a killer deal on the Ecoflow Bifacial 220x panels and snagged them.
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so chiming in since I currently run both systems in my truck.
Systems:
I utilize an Ecoflow Delta 2 with Delta Max (first gen) add-on battery in the cab. That is the “solar generator”
I also utilize a LiFEPO4 in the bed. That is the “solar to battery” setup.
I also have 2 160w Ecoflow portable solar panels for in-cab and a 175w Renogy flex panel for roof mount should I do “base camp” mode (i have yet to mount the flex panel)
A bit of truck:
my truck is a Ram 1500 Rebel with e-torque, which utilizes a generator and 48 lithium battery instead of traditional alternator system to charge the battery. The benefit of this is the generator generates 48v of voltage and store it in the small lithium battery to help drive the driving wheels half a turn when starting from a stop and it also powers the start/stop function, as well as charging the starting battery.
Now, the starting battery is the power source/ relay of both systems. It also powers all of my exterior lights. The longevity of this system with my usage is yet to be tested and determined so we’ll see how it goes.
Usage
My primary usage for the in-cab setup is to power the fridge and have the ability to charge various USB gizmos and drones while on the go. In addition, the in-cab setup also powers Starlink while at camp.
My primary usage for the in-bed setup is to power the camp lights for hours, as well as to run the diesel heater during winter months. I am also planning to add an inverter to run my Ecoflow Wave (first gen) for summer months.
I am forgoing the “solar” part at this time because I don’t really do “base camp” mode. When I go camping/ overlanding, I am always on the move so I rely on engine supplied power.
In the cab
-Parts:
- Ecoflow Delta 2 + Delta Max Add-On Battery, giving me total of 3000wh of capacity.
- Victron 12/24 DC-DC charger. This allows me to charge my EcoFlow with XT60i at almost 400w peak. To charge my in-cab “generators” from 15% to 100% only takes ~3 hours when driving. The system disconnects itself after ignition has been turned off
- I run a dedicated 4 gauge power and ground through the firewall to power various other items using Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground, including the Victron that in terms charges the EcoFlows. So far, only the mobile HAM radio and a quick disconnect for the fridge are plugged in. With this setup, should I choose to run fridge directly to the car battery while driving so I can use the 12v plug on the Ecoflow to charge my drone batteries.
(sorry for the bad quality pic… I just realized I never properly took picture of my in-cab setup. I’ll find a time to do it) The blue mount on the bottom right has the Blue Sea mounted next to the Ham Radio brain. The yellow cable that goes under the wood is the trigger wire for the Victron. Victron sits on the bottom of the blue mount. The wood platform is a floor mount that I’m R&Ding for in-cab floor mount for Ram 1500s.
-Benefits:
- I keep the fridge in the cab instead of in the camper contrary to many others because the bed is not 100% dust proof, and I like to keep my more sensitive electronics protected.
- I also charge my trail map tablet using EcoFlow, since the onboard USB chargers are not enough to charge the tablet while it’s running at 100% brightness.
- I can change the gizmo I’m charging on the fly. Most are just USB powered items so I don’t have to stop to swap.
- The Victron is fast charging, even it’s used to power the fridge while being charged.
- With the Ecoflow inside the cab, I can monitor it by listening to the beep when electricity is being fed to it to know when it’s being charged without pulling out the app or looking at the screen.
-Drawbacks:
None so far. I could use a faster DC-DC charger but it’s not really necessary.
In the Camper
-Parts:
- 6 gauge power and ground from battery with trigger wire
- LiTimes 100AH LiFEPO4
- Renogy 50A DC-DC charger with MPPT
- All-Top Battery Box
- Blue Sea Fuse Bar and Fuse Block with Ground
- Nilite switches
-Benefits:
- This stand alone system is dedicated to the camper only.
- The Renogy DC-DC with MPPT disconnects itself when the ignition is off, so I don’t have to worry about draining the starting battery. I can easily add solar charging to it with the Renogy flex panel should I have the need for it.
- The 100AH LiFEPo4 gives about ~1000wh of capacity, more than capable of running diesel heater for over 24 hours non-stop. It also is capable of powering my camper lights for hours on end while charging my phone and tablet.
- The battery box comes with a voltage display, USB ports, 12v sockets, and 2 50A Anderson connectors. I elect to wire a fuse block with ground to it to have switched power to everything though.
- The Blue Sea Fuse Bar, Nilite switch, and Fuse Block with Ground only serve one purpose - to be able to turn on and off things. Power is sent to the Fuse Block, which powers the switches. Switches then goes to Fuse Bar, which goes to all the components. When the switch is off, lights are off. When the switches are on, lights are on. Fuse bar serves as a safety so I don’t start a fire should any of the lights short out. The fuse block also serves as a grounding point for all components before grounding back to the battery.
-Benefit:
- Dedicated system for the bed
- Ability to add another switch
- Fast charging and big capacity - Renogy pushes out 50A max but I’ve yet to see it happen. I’ve yet to drain the LiFEPo4 either.
- Rooms for upgrade and swap out systems.
-Drawbacks:
- No monitoring system (I could add it but that’s another $80 or so)
- Nilite switch is some cheap chinese product. Reliability, especially when exposed to water and dust, is questionable.
- Lots of wiring.
(Left to right: control box for lower floor camper lights, Nilite switches, Blue Sea Fuse Bar, Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground, Renogy DC-DC charger with MPPT, All-Top Battery Box with LiFEPO4 inside)
What do I think of each system?
If you want a one-size-fit-it-all solution, solar generators will be your best choice. It is everything you need and more, but it is expensive if you get a quality product and not just some unknown cheap Chinese brand. A 1000w unit is plenty if all you want to run your fridge overnight. If you’re always on the go, a Victron 12/24 DC-DC charger is going to be your best bet. You won’t even need solar with it. With Ecoflow, you do get the ability to expand your capacity. If you also want to run AC powered items like a Starlink or even an A/C in summer, the solar generators will satisfy those demands. The only drawback is the price tag.
If you want something more customized or you want to source your own parts and have the ability to upgrade components in the future, then solar to battery will be your choice. Depends on the components used, it CAN be cheaper to set up. This also eliminates many output restrains found on solar generators. For instance, many solar generators can’t start a diesel heater because the starting process takes way too much amperage for the 12v sockets in those generators, but with a direct-to-battery setup using correct fuse it is of no problem to solar-to-battery setup (aka, my camper setup). However, purchasing the correct hardwares (Blue Sea components, especially) can get expensive.
Honestly though, I wouldn’t recommend solar as the primary or the only power input. It is far too weather dependent. When it’s overcast, you won’t get enough juice to replenish what you’ve used overnight. Whichever route you choose (solar generator/ solar to battery), I strongly recommend running a DC-DC charger as your primary.
*Note: both systems have their individual Blue Sea 100A circuit breaker near the power source. ALWAYS run a quality (aka, Blue Sea) breaker to avoid over consumption or starting a fire. *
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That’s not actually unreasonable. My battery alone was almost this cost.
The DC-DC option in my system was 100% the right call. I still have 100w solar, but the DC system fills the void and keeps the whole system hassle and worry-free.
I appreciate the right-up and the blue sea recommendation. I am collecting the pieces for my battery set-up now.
since going this route last year my solars just sit at home lol
now, if i anticipate i’ll be doing “base camp” for a day or two then I’ll bring the panels to fill the void during day time. those starlinks do drain battery especially when it gets cold.
feel free to ask me anything. with so many trips between i put it together and now (i’m counting at least 10) I feel like I finally got it right.
A few tips and tricks when looking:
- Always buy Blue Sea system and not the Chinese knockoffs you can find for 1/3 of the cost on Amazon. Chinese brand specs are usually less/ inferior to US brand specs when it comes to electronic components. Blue Sea is good because they are marine rated so I’d say their standard for quality and power handling is a lot better.
- It’s okay to buy a cheaper LiFEPO4 if you’re going the “solar-to-battery” route. I see it as a wear and tear item that will only be cheaper to acquire as time goes, so no need to buy the most expensive one now unless the expensive ones offer the features that you must have. I paid about $250 for my LiTimes LiFEPO4.
- If you’re going the Solar Generator route, invest in the most expensive one you can afford as those are all-in-one units that you can’t service yourself. So you want the best possible. I like Ecoflow because I am running the Wave for summer, so having everything I want to control/ monitor within one app and compatibility between Delta and Wave are two major reasons why.
- Skip the cheap Chinese branded ones that have no US presence or recognition found on Amazon. Those are cheap and unrecognized for a reason because they are either not tested or fail the tests performed by independent users.
- When buying all-in-one units, be sure to buy the capacity more than you think you need for futureproofing. I used to run a 250w Jackery for the fridge only and that wouldn’t last a night. Then I went 500w China brand and that lasts a night but gave me some other problems. Then I went Delta 2 with 1000w, which is perfect but not enough to power fridge and Starlink and Wave. So I added a 2000w Delta Max (first gen) add on. Then for Diesel heater and camper lights I added the 100ah LiFEPO4, which for summer I will add an inverter to run the Wave.
- for power to the cab, a 8 gauge cable should be plenty. For power to the rear cable size will depending on your DC-DC charger amperage. In my case, for 50A I use 6 gauge cables.
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Yeah. My 100w is just mounted to the roof, so it’s always present (and the DC-DC system also accepts solar as needed, so it’s always connected).
Easy.
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sigh i just need to get myself to not be lazy and get the flexy one on LOL
Yeah… it’s now literally “just don’t think about juice” with regards to my setup. It’s just ready. I also built a very similar system in the bed- but I broke it into pieces & boxed some of it together so I have ports in every corner. Still, similar overall concept. It’s flawless.
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What are the critical blue sea components for a solar/alternator-battery system? I am all about supporting US-made; they are just up I-5 from me.
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I am currently looking at the battle-born heated LiFePO 12v 100 ah (will likely get two.) In the summer, I also plan on running an AC. What is the decision-making process for going with Wave 1? Is it just what you had, or is there some other consideration? I cut downed trees from trails in the summer, and it is hot work. I was looking at the Bouge RV model but would appreciate any insights (app integration isn’t super important for me; I don’t like using my phone, haha).
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In the short term, I plan on getting a solar generator to power my schoolwork and odds and ends; I just need to decide on a brand. I am still uncertain about the capacity so that definitely helps. I think my build may shake out very similarly to yours. Thanks again.
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I run everything Blue Sea, from the circuit breaker, fuse bar, fuse block with ground, and bus bar are all blue sea.
Circuit breaker will be your first line of defense and also a physical on/off switch. 50-100A is going to be plenty enough.
I run power through circuit breaker through firewall to 6 slot fuse block with ground (and ground returns to engine bay and body grounded due to truck’s sensor on ground terminal on the battery). This 6 slot fuse block serves as a distribution panel as well. Then, I run another circuit breaker off the power (red) terminal on the Blue Sea, for that to go to Victron since Victron pushing out max output requires more than 30A of power. -
I bought Wave 1 because it features refrigerant and compressor instead of using fan and ice. I got Wave 1 in 2021 as Wave 2 (heating and cooling all in one) wasn’t available. I chose it because of app integration, the integration of add on battery that can eliminate the need for external power source, as well as no-drainage required. My goal was to rely on Wave 1’s integrated battery to last through the night in summer. This was back in 2021 BEFORE I got the truck and thus, before I did the camper setup. Now I’m just using what I have until it dies, then I go Wave 2 and ditch the diesel heater.
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You’re welcome. I got no problems with Ecoflow so I recommend them and I think you’ll enjoy them too.
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I pulled the trigger on a Delta 2 with an extra battery. For charging while driving, I plan to use my integrated bed plug. I am considering solar options but will likely go with the bifacial set they have. The first proper test is next week near Rainier for biking and boarding.
Will the Wave 2 limit moisture buildup similar to a diesel heater, or is that not a concern for you?
the bed plug as in the ciggy plug or the 400w plug? test to confirm the AC plug works before setting out. When i tried the AC plug in the cab it didn’t work at all. the ciggy plug will take forever and ever to charge.
Also, if you’re charging when the vehicle is moving, especially if you’re offroad, the plugs will come loose. For that, I strongly recommend using a bus bar and connector type of connection (meaning, more work for you LOL)
Wave 2 should limit moisture buildup because it’s “dry” heat, not “wet” heat like propane heaters.