I’ve been thinking about relocating my backup camera to a similar spot. Any tips on wire routing and mounting?
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I used a dremel and put a notch in the 3rd brake light. Wired through the same hole as that wiring and then across the top to the passenger side then down and through the bed. I haven’t sealed it up yet. Time will tell.
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Nice, thanks. Good move to use the existing wiring hole.
Not my Idea original post ??? I forget but its a great upgrade , Southco makes these same company that GFC is using but much better.
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This is the true solution! Not to mention it looks great.
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Here is a link Z member that did the original post he lists all the parts I ordered directly from Southco cost was $125
Took me 15 minutes per side with a hand file turns out the outside diameter of the existing latch is a good template for the new one.
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Jcknapp74 -
I like that “panelled” wood. Makes it look better than just plywood. Going to have to look for some of that to finish my build out.
Robjob -
And here I was getting velcro already to use for a curtain, instead of reaching for my drill and miles of parachute cord I’ve accumulated over the years. Def going to do this now for my rear hatch window!
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This looks great! Any more pictures of what the inside construction looks like? Thanks
Yoooooo I’m new to the forum but I just recently bought my v2 for my 2nd gen 6 spd dcsb built out this slider with some materials sourced from my local scrapyard. I found the sliders at my local hardwood supply store. looking forward to sharing more of my gfc journey here but most of the build is on ig @jordanstagram
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Can I come with you to your local scrapyard next time plz?
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Yeah dude lol. If you’re in the Orange County, check them out. The place is called Unicorn Metal Sales
Everything is priced by weight and material type.
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Finished a simple shelf for cooler, seat and extra storage underneath. Poplar with mitered edges (at the insistence of my dad). Feels incredibly strong
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More scrapyard aluminum finds. Made a roof rack with the same type of profiles I built the bedslide with. Found a locking pin to lock the slide in fully open and fully closed positions.
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Im at the exact point you are. I can’t decide if i want a drawer with the fridge on top or to build and enclosure around the fridge so i can store stuff above it. I also can’t decide what I want to do with the dead space behind the fridge.
The one advantage about building a drawer is by mounting the fridge on top you can now mount it closer the the bedside because its above the wheel well giving you possibly more room on the bed floor depending on how big your drawer is.
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I decided I want to build a single drawer beside the fridge. I’m also moving the fridge closer to the tailgate which will allow ‘more’ room for storage behind (towards the cab) it. I do plan to store a secondary/house battery in the space behind the fridge. Aside from the battery storage area, I will split the area for ‘other’ storage. Against the cab wall, I plan to mount the Victron MPPT, possibly inverter, fuse block, etc. We’ll see what room I have.
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I opted for the fridge on top of drawers. The drawers are 42” long and I have an 18” compartment behind thise which I access via a lift-off panel. I have my battery and recovery equipment there which hopefully I rarely need access to. Drawers are 15” of useable capacity tall and there is only an 1” of clearance between the fridge & roof, but it works perfectly.
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For us it depends on how you want to access the fridge: standing on the ground outside or from inside the camper or both. The height of the top of the fridge relative to the ground and the bed floor then becomes the critical set of dimensions. I have seen those tilting slides and they are cool…but might not be for everyone. I also like the idea of being able to lift the fridge out of the truck when at camp. Makes for an additional seat, side table, or even an ottoman if not too tall. One thing is for sure, planning around the fridge is the key to a successful overlanding build.
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