For sure these would be worth it if like.you say, you had a larger space between them and the roof. I was surprised they hit the roof to be honest.
Hello! The Gladiator cab roof is wide and square enough that the tent portion of your Camper should drain into the truck’s factory gutters. We do consider them redundant because of that, and the Gladiator Camper is low profile to the point that adding them on anyway can mean they chatter against the roof on rougher roads.
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After four years of ownership, we finally had our first latch failure and got a fresh replacement in. Compared to the rest of the wear on our camper, the fresh one looks kinda out of place. 
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Battle Tested
Improved the rear scene light setup…
removed the Rigid Ignite Pod…
And installed two Baja Designs Rock Lights on custom mounts designed for the GFC T Slot Nuts. Mounts are recessed at the back so the T Slot Nuts pull the mount tight, mounts are also angled down 33 degrees.
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I have the same one… love it!
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Three BougeRV Arch Pro 200watt panels are the EXACT dimensions of the roof of the V2 Pro (at least for the Rivian R1T). 600 watts going to the gear tunnel where there is a Pecron F3000 plus a 48v golf cart battery. Dumping excess power to the truck battery. Also wired a photoresistor relay using the 12v in the gear tunnel to the trucks 3rd brake light to switch the GFC brake light. Ran the wire through the existing grommet hole behind the back bed liner. Ran all the wires behind the side bed liner and then along the bed rail beside so the power tonneau cover can still function as normal.
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What do you like better about the C5 compared to the originals? My biggest gripe is that inserting the keys is really a pain with the ones that GFC provides.
Put some passive vents for winter camping so the upstairs gets a little heat along with the downstairs where the kids are, which is the primary.
Also, put our old dog’s collar who just passed as our hatch pull.
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Put in some fresh sheets from Overland Softgoods, thanks @WrinkledPants for getting these out to us!
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Any recommendations for sealant around the 3rd brake light for water intrusion? I had to replace mine and I’m wanting to use a sealant that won’t take off the paint if I have to replace it again. These brake lights are super cheap so I won’t be surprised if I have to replace it every couple of years.
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Shortened our rain fly prop arms and rearranged the anchor points so that when the rear flap rain fly is out, it’s sits a little closer to the tent. Helps keep privacy and also does a better job of blocking rain if we have to use the fly to prevent condensation over a rainy night.
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I like this… I need to give that some thought.
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It’s been a couple nights since we shortened the rods and I’m so much happier with it.
The long arms look great for Instagram but are way less practical at actually keeping the window open and keeping rain out.
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It’s on my list to complete this afternoon! Appreciate the insight. Simple and effective…I’m in for that!
I have thought of the same thing - the long rods are great in the dry when you want a lot of airflow in the heat.
I wonder if there is a connector you could get to use the cut off piece of rod still at full extensinon?
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The ARB ones are pretty cheap (when in stock) so I think I’ll grab another set and follow your lead.
For those that have a 3d printer, you can print something like this and they work well. They just snap on and snap off the t-track. The rainfly pole fits in the hole. I use 100% infill ABS filament, and they are solid. I also have a few with a stainless steel bolt in the hole and use them to hang random stuff. When packing up, just pop them off and pack them.
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Love that idea - I’d pay for the file.